/-1» 



OUIDE TO THE WONDERS 

OF THE GREAT CATARACT 
WITH MANY ILLUSTRATIONS 

and comprehensive explanations 
^ of the ^ 

HISTORY 

SCIENTIFIC ASPECTS 

POWER. DEVELOPMENT 

AND INDUSTRIAL IMPORTANCE 

OF THE NIAGARA REGION. 



PRICE 25 CENTS 



< 



THE AMERICAN FALL. 



THE RED BOOK 



OF 



NIAGARA 



A COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE 



TO THE 



Scientific, Historical and Scenic 
Aspects of Niagara 



FOR THE USE OF TRAVELLERS 



BY IRVING P. BISHOP, S. M , F. G. S, A. 



Revised and Enlarged Edition. 
With Many Illustrations, Index and Maps 



BUFFALO, N. Y. 

CHARLES A. WENBORNE. 

1907 






UbRARY of CONGRESS 

Iwo Cooles Kacelvod 

AUQ 2 laor 

Cppyrjfht Brtry 
CLASSM XX6., No. 

COPY 0. 



Copyright 1907 by 
Charles A. Wenborne. 



Press of 

hausal'hr-jones printing co. 

Buffalo, N. V. 



Outlines of Contents. 



The Cities of Niagara Falls, N. Y. , and Niagara Falls, 
Ontario 

Page 
Area, Population, Hotels, Carriage Regulations, 
Customs, Bridges, Park Improvements by the 
Governments of the State of "New York and the 
Dominion of Canada, Tourists' Directory 9-16 

Ho^v to See Niagara. 

Outlines for Trips for the tourist with limited time 18-21 

Itineraries in Detail for Excursions: 

To Prospect Park and the American Fall 23 

From Prospect Park around Goat Island 24 

To the Cave of the Winds (Maid of the Mist) 28 

To Port Day, Factory of Natural Food Co., Plant 

of Niagara Falls Power Co 34 

From Prospect Park to Horseshoe Fall,Victoria Park 35. 

From Horseshoe Fall to Duff erin Islands 44 

To the Burning Spring 45 

From Duff erin Islands to Chippawa 46 

From Upper to Lower Arch Bridge, Canadian Side 

(Geological Observation) 47 

From Lower Arch Bridge to Lundy's Lane Battle- 
field 47 

From Lower Arch Bridge to the Whirlpool (St. 

David's Gorge) 50 

From the Whirlpool to Niagara Glen 57 

From Niagara Glen to Queenston and Lewiston 60 

From Queenston or Lewiston to Niagara Falls, N.Y. 

(Gorge Route) 63 



Page 
From Niagara Falls, N. Y., to Suspension Bridge 

and Devil's Hole 67 

To Fort Niagara, Youngstown, Niagara-on-the-Lake 74-76 
From Buffalo to Niagara Falls by Electric or Steam 
Roads, through the Power District; The Water 
Route 76-84 

Historical. 

First Knowledge of the Niagara Region, LaSalle, 
Father Hennepin, War between the British and 
French, Devil's Hole Massacre, War of 1812, Battle 
of Queenston Heights, Death of General Brock, 
Devastation of the Frontier, Battles of Fort Erie, 
Chippawa, and Lundy's Lane, Siege of Fort Erie, 
Dismantling of the Fort, The Morgan Incident, 
A Jewish Colonization Scheme, Burning of the 
Steamer Caroline, Rope Walkers, Bridge Jump- 
ers, e.tc 85-94 

Geological. 

Stratigraphy, Flow the Gorge was Made, Retro- 
gression of the Falls, Evidence that the River 
has once flowed at a higher Level, Geological 
History, The St. David's Channel, Age of the Niag- 
ara Gorge, Future of the Falls, Earth Movement 
in the Lake Region 95-106 

Niagara Falls Power. 

Electric and Hydraulic Power Companies, Descrip- 
tion of the Different Plants, Methods of Generation 
and Utilization, Transmission of Power 107-116 

Fishing and Hunting. 

117-118 

References. 

119 

Alphabetical Index. 

122-124 

Maps. 

120-121 



Illustrations. 



Page 

Frontispiece, 

Hennepin's View, 20 

Prospect Park in Winter, 21 

Upper Steel Arch Bridge, 22 

American Rapids from Goat Island Bridge, 25 

American Fall from Goat Island, 27 

Luna Fall from below, 29 

Terrapin Rock from Goat Island, 31 

Canadian Rapids from Third Sister Island, 33 

Path near Horseshoe FaU, Winter, 33 

American Fall from Canadian side, 36 

Ice Bridge, 37 

Ice Mounds, American Fall, ! .... 37 

General View from Upper Arch Bridge, 38 

Horseshoe Fall from above, 39 

Air Explosions, Horseshoe Fall, 41 

Effects of Air Explosions, Horseshoe Fall, 42 

Canadian Fall from Table Rock, 43 

Looking out of Chippawa Creek, old Battlefield, .... 46 

Cantilever and Lower Steel Arch Bridges, 48 

Geological Section of the Gorge opposite the Rapids, American 

side, 51 

The Whirlpool Rapids, 52 

The Whirlpool, 54 

Under the Old Cataract, Wintergreen Flats, 56 

Edge of the Old Cataract, Wintergreen Flats, . . . . .56 

Geological Section of the Gorge from Foster's Flats, . . . 58 . 

Brock's Monument, . .59 

Queenston from Brock's Monument, 61 

Remains of Old Earthwork, near Brock's Monument, ... 62 

Looking up the Gorge from Lewiston, 63 

Giant Rock, 64 

The Whirlpool Rapids, 66 

Devil's Pulpit, 68 

Crinoid Head, natural size, 70 

Arthrophycus Harlani, r . 70 



Page 

A Bit of Ancient Iroquois Beach, Lewiston, 72 

Power and Transformer Houses, Niagara Falls Power Co., . . 80 

Electric Furnace 80 

Transformers, Niagara Falls Power Co., 81 

Interior of Power House, Niagara Falls Power Co., . . . . 82 

Cut showing Strata in order of deposition, 97 

Penstock, Niagara Falls Hydraulic Power Co., . . . . Ill 

Bank and Power House, Niagara Falls Hydraulic Power Co., . Ill 



The Cities of Niagara Falls, N. Y.. 
and Niagara Falls, Ontario. 

THE city on the American side was formed by the con- 
. Nidation of the villages of Niagara Falls and Suspension 
Bridge. It embraces an area of eight and one half square 
miles, and has now a population of nearly 30,000. Formerly its 
reputation depended solely upon its propinquity to one of the 
greatest scenic wonders of the world; but since 1890 the 
utilization of the great water power of Niagara for the gen- 
eration of electricity has made of the city an important 
industrial center, unique in its commercial appUcation of 
electricity to varied chemical processes. 

Niagara Falls, Ontario, on the opposite side of the 
river (pop. about 9,000), was formed through the consoli- 
dation into one municipality of the three towns Niagara 
Falls North, or Clifton, at the Cantilever and Lower Arch 
Bridges; Niagara Falls Central, at the Upper Arch Bridge, 
and Niagara Falls South, or Drummondsville, on the Lundy's 
Lane battlefield. The city is reached from Niagara Falls 
N. Y., by the Upper and Lower Arch Bridges. 

Arrivals. 

Passengers arriving at Niagara Falls, N. Y., over the 
Wabash or Erie lines, alight at the Erie station, corner 
Fourth and Niagara streets, two minutes' walk from Falls 
Street. Those who arrive by other lines alight at the New 
York Central depot, corner Second and Falls streets, in the 
same quarter. Walk from either station to Prospect Park 
in five to seven minutes. Travelers arriving by electric 
railway from Buffalo are set down at Prospect Park, near 
the American Falls. 

On the Canadian Side, Grand Trunk passengers alight 
at Niagara Falls North and take carriage or trolley to other 
points. Trains of the Michigan Central Railroad mostly 
stop at Falls View, Victoria Park, and Niagara Falls North. 

The steamers of the Niagara River Line land passengers 
at Lewiston, seven miles north of the Falls, on the American 
side, whence the Falls are reached by the electric Belt Line 
(Gorge Road) or by the New York Central Railroad. 



10 

Carriages — American Side. 

The city ordinances permit the following maximum charges 
unless there be an express contract between the parties: 
For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage 
from any point within the city limits to any 

other point therein, not exceeding one mile 50 Cents 

For each additional passenger and ordinary baggage 25 Cents 
For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage 
from any point within the city limits to any 
other point therein more than one mile and not 

exceeding two miles $1 . 00 

For each additional passenger and ordinary baggage 50 Cents 
For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage 
from any point within the city limits to any 
other point therein more than two miles and 

not exceeding three miles $1 . 50 

For each additional passenger and ordinary baggage $1 . 00 

For carrying passengers any distance more than three 
miles: for two-horse carriages, two dollars for the first hour 
and one dollar and fifty cents for each additional hour; for 
one-horse carriages, one dollar and fifty cents for the first 
hour, and one dollar for each additional hour. 

For carrying other than ordinary baggage within the 
city limits, for each piece: not exceeding one mile, twenty- 
five cents; more than one mile, not exceeding two miles, 
fifty cents; more than two miles, not exceeding three miles, 
seventy- five cents. 

Ordinary baggage is defined to be one trunk and one bag 
or handbox or other small parcel. 

Overcharge renders the driver liable to a penalty not ex- 
ceeding $25.00. On hiring a carriage always make a bargain 
with the driver. In case of overcharge, take the number of 
the vehicle and enter complaint to the Superintendent of 
the Reservation, if the offense is committed there, or at 
the Police Station opposite Erie Depot, if elsewhere. 

The Miller & Brundage Co. control the transfer of passen- 
gers and baggage at the New York Central Railroad Station. 
Their agents sohcit business on all trains entering the city, 
and have carriages in waiting at the depots. 



11 

Reservation Carriages. 

From June 1st to September 1st carriages and automobiles 
leave Inclined Railway Terminal Station, Prospect Park, 
every ten to fifteen minutes, stopping at all important points 
on Goat Island. Tickets (15 cents) allow stop-over and are 
good on any carriage of the line. In the same service are 
included several automobiles; tickets for these cost 25 cents 
and entitle to same privileges as the carriage tickets. 

Carriages— Canadian Side. 

Maximum rates, by the hour, allowed by ordinance : one- 
horse vehicle, $1.00; two-horse, $1.50. By the day (of 
eight hours): one-horse vehicle, $4.00; two-horse, $8.00. 
Passengers pay all tolls, unless otherwise agreed. 

Hackmen's charges from any place in the city to any 
other place" in the city: 

Tw^o-horse VeKicle. 

Not exceeding 1 mile, 1 person .25 2 persons .37^, each ad.l2i 

H " 1 '' -37^2 " .50 " .20 
Exceeding IJ " 1 " .50 2 " .75 '' .25 

One-horse Vehicle. 

Not exceeding 1 mile^ 1 person .20 2 persons .30, each ad. 10 
1 '' 1 " .25 2 " .37^ " .12^ 
Exceeding 1 '' 1 '' .37^2 " .50 '' .20 

Hotels — American Side. 

Hotel Imperial, corner Falls and Second streets, opposite 
Central Depot. American plan, $2.50 to $4.00; single meal, 
75 cents; rooms, $1.00 to $2.00. 

Kaltenbach House, 14 Buffalo street, fronting Park and 
American rapids. Accommodates 50 guests. $3.00 per 
day. Famous for its table d'hote dinners, 12 :45 and 2 P. M. 

Prospect House, Second street, one block south of Central 
Depot. Accommodates 125 guests. American plan, $3.50 
to $5.50 per day. Single meals, $1.00. 

Temperance House, 318-324 Second street, about midway 
between Erie and Central depots. American plan, $1.50 
to $2.50 per day. No intoxicants sold. Well spoken of. 



12 

International Hotel, Main and Falls streets, and the Cataract 
House, Main and Buffalo streets, conducted as one hotel. 
Open from May 15th to October 15th only. Accommodations 
for 1,000 guests. American plan, $3.50 to $5.50 per day. 

Tower Hotel, 309-313 Riverway. American plan, $2.00, 
$2.50, and $3.00. 

The Oak, Restaurant and European Hotel, 22-26 F^lls 
street. Good. Rooms, $1.00. 

There are also a number of restaurants and boarding 
houses furnishing rooms at different prices. 

Hotels and Restaurants — Canadian Side. 

Niagara Falls North: The Savoy, $2.00 per day, 30 
rooms, good. The Windsor, $2.00, well recommended. Rail- 
road Restaurant (Grand Trunk Depot), good. 

Niagara Falls Central: The Clifton Hotel, near Upper 
Bridge, 200 rooms, American plan, $4.00 to $6.00; lunch 
$1.00; dinner, $1.50. Open the year around. Hotel Lafay- 
ette, at end of Upper Arch Bridge, $2.00 to $3.00 per day. 
The new Refectory in Victoria Park near the Horseshoe 
Falls contains a good restaurant. 

Niagara Falls South: Prospect House, Main street, 
Lundy's Lane, $1.50 to $2.00; good for the price. The 
Hospice of Mount Carmel, at Falls View, reached by trolley 
line, has accommodations for 200 guests. American plan, 
$2.50 to $4.00 per day, $14.00 to $24.00 per week; European 
plan, $1.50 to $2.50 per day. Table d'hote breakfast, 50 
cents; luncheon, 75 cents; dinner, $1.25. 

Electric Railways. 

Cars leave the foot of Falls street as follows : For Buffalo, 
every fifteen minutes in winter, and more frequently in sum- 
mer; fare, one way, thirty-five cents; round trip, fifty cents. 
Connects at Tonawanda with electric cars for Lockport and 
Olcott Beach. 

The Niagara Belt Line, around and through the Niagara 
gorge, Lewiston, Queenston, and Niagara Falls, Ont., in 
summer every 15 minutes, in winter every hour; trip over 



13 

entire line $1.00; trip on Gorge Road (the American side) 
only, one way 50 cents, both ways 75 cents. The road 
checks baggage, 150 pounds for whole, and 75 pounds for half 
ticket. (See itineraries for detailed information.) 

For Canadian Side, visi Vpper Arch Bridge, every 15 min- 
utes in winter and more frequently in summer. 

For St Catharines and Port Dalhousie, Ont., via Niagara, 
St. Catharines, and Toronto Electric Railway, every hour 
at ten minutes past the hour; fare 75 cents round trip, 50 
cents one way. In summer, boats run between Port Dal- 
housie and Toronto. Inquiry regarding connections should 
be made at the N., St. C. & T. office, foot of Falls street. 

For points icilhin the city every five to fifteen minutes; 
fare five cents. Waiting room, with information bureau on 
Riverway, near Falls street. 

For Whirlpool Rapids and Devil's Hole see page 67. 

Tourists* Directory — American Side. 

Automobile Garage. Harris & Wilson, 326 Main street; 
do repairing also. Niagara Falls Automobile Transit Co., 
103 Main street, storing, washing and poHshing. Day and 
night. 

Banks. Bank of Niagara and Power City Bank, both in 
Gluck Building, opposite Central Depot. N. F. Trust Co., 
corner Falls and First streets. Bank of Suspension Bridge, 
corner Main and Cleveland streets. 

Express. American, National, Canadian, north end of 
Central Depot. United States, Pacific, 41 Falls street. 
Wells-Fargo, Falls street, near Main. 

Museum. Davis's, 315-319 Riverway, admission 25 cents. 
Large collection of zoological specimens, antiquities, etc. 

Newspapers (daily). The N. F. Gazette (Rep.), Cataract- 
Journal (Dem.), N. F. News (Rep.) 

Opticians. Max Elbe, 105 Falls street; C. F. Gushing, 5 
Arcade Building. 

Periodicals, News, etc. D. W. Campbell Co., 103 Falls 
street. 

Photographic Supplies, also Books and Stationery, G. S. 
Cowper, 39 Falls street. 



14 

Police Station, corner Second and Niagara streets. 

Post Office, 31 Falls street; after Oct. 1,1907, corner Main 
and Walnut streets. 

Public Library, 16,000 volumes, Main street, near Ash- 
land avenue. Main street cars pass the door. 

Telegraph. Postal Telegraph Co., 41 Falls street. Western 
Union, 32 Falls street, and in the N. Y. Central Depot. 

Theater, International; lower end of Falls street, open 
all the year. 

Sporting Goods and bicycle repairs. Rae, 120 Falls street. 

Stores. The principal business places are located on Falls 
street, between the Central Depot and Prospect Park. Al- 
most any article required may be found there. Souvenirs, 
fancy goods, etc., are widely sold and may be found in al- 
most any store you enter. 

Tourists' Directory — Canadian Side. 

Banks. Imperial Bank of Canada, opposite Upper Arch 
Bridge and opposite Michigan Central Station at N. F. North. 
Bank of Hamilton, opposite Lower Arch Bridge and corner 
Main and Ferry streets, N. F. South. Royal Bank of Canada, 
opposite Grand Trunk station, Niagara Falls North. 

Express. Dominion, 32 Bridge street, N. F. North; Canadian 
American, at end of Grand Trunk Station, N. F. North. 

Newspaper. Daily N. F. Record, Clifton ave. and Park 
street, N. F. North. 

Police Stations. Erie ave. and Queen street, N. F. North, 
and Ferry street, near Main, at N. F. South. 

Post Office. Clifton ave. and Park street, N. F. North, 
and Main street, near Ferry, at N. F. South. 

Telegraph, Northwestern, Grand Trunk Station, N. F. 
North, and at Clifton Hotel, C. P. R., 32 Bridge street, N. F. 

^^^^^- Customs— American Side. 

The port of Niagara Falls, N. Y., is at Suspension Bridge, 
near Main street. Customs officers are also stationed at the 
termini of the bridges, and inspect all baggage. Travelers 
should see to it that their trunks or packages in baggage 
car are unlocked when crossing the frontier, or they should 
attach the keys in plain view; baggage that cannot be readily 
inspected is certain to be detained. 



15 

Cameras for tourists' use go free. 

Automobiles of foreign manufacture must pay duty or 
be bonded to the United States for a period not exceeding 
three months. Automobiles made in the U. S. and not 
improved outside of the U. S. may enter free. When ma- 
chine and owner are unknown to inspectors, affidavit be- 
fore American consul (office Erie ave. and Queen street, 
N. F. North), fee $1.00, will be required. A nonresident 
with satisfactory references can be allowed to bring his 
automobile into the U. S. free for not exceeding three days, 
but must undertake to prove to the inspector that the 
machine is returned. No machine brought into the U. S. 
for a commercial purpose can be bonded. 

Cvistoms— Canadian Side. 

The Custom House is located at the corner of Clifton ave., 
and Park street, Niagara Falls North. Inspectors at the 
termini of the bridges. Examination is similar to that on 
the American side. 

Automobiles entering Canada must be bonded to the 
Government. Bond is furnished for $5.00, good for three 
months, serviceable in calendar year. Special 24 hour per- 
mits can be given, without bonding, on satisfactory reference 
furnished. The provincial government requires every auto- 
mobile on Ontario roads to have Ontario license (cost $4.00) 
and to carry Ontario markers and no others. All can be 
arranged with little delay at the termini of the bridges. 

Bridges. 

Four bridges span the Gorge below the Falls. The Upper 
Steel Arch Bridge near Prospect Park was built in 1898; 
length, 1,240 feet; length of arch span,840 feet. Electric 
railway, carriage, and foot bridge. Foot passengers, 10 
cents round trip, trolley across bridge included. Next 
below, the Cantilever Bridge of the Michigan Central 
R. R. Length, 910 feet. For railway traffic only. A few 
rods below, the Lower Steel Arch Bridge of the Grand 
Trunk Railroad. Length, 1,080 feet ; upper track for rail- 
way, lower for carriage and foot traffic Fare, 10 cents 
round trip on same day. The New Suspensicn Bridge at 
Queenston: Fare, round trip, 15 cents; each way, 10 cents. 



16 
The Parks. 

The two beautiful Parks, including the choicest part of 
Niagara, owe their existence to a chance meeting between 
Governor Robinson of New York and Lord Dufferin, then 
Governor General of Canada, in 1878. The latter suggested 
joint action on the part of the State of New York and of the 
Province of Ontario, to acquire the lands about the great 
cataract, and to make of them an international reservation 
free to the public forever. Each Government should retain 
jurisdiction of its own portion of the Park, but with a 
mutual understanding as to the general regulations to be 
enforced on both sides. In his next message. Governor Rob- 
inson recommended the appointment of commissioners to 
confer with like commissioners, appointed by the Province 
of Ontario, for consideration of the plan. Similar recom- 
mendations were made by Lord Dufferin to the Ontario Gov- 
ernment. In 1884 the purchase of Prospect Park and the 
lands adjacent to the rapids, together with the islands in the 
river near them, was consummated, the State of New York 
paying for them an aggregate of $1,433,429.50. In 1885 
the Dominion Government purchased 154 acres, extending 
from the Clifton House southward to and including the Dufferin 
Islands, paying for them $436,000. The Park so called 
was subsequently enlarged by a strip along the river front, 
from Chippawa to Fort Erie, a distance of 16 miles, and a similar 
strip along the gorge from the Park to Niagara on the Lake. 
These strips are known as the Chain Reserve. To the above 
have been added 145 acres including lands at Niagara Glen, 
Queenston Hei ghts, and strips for electric railway and highway 
purposes. The commissioners also lease for park purposes 
the Military Reserve at Queenston heights and the Old Fort 
Grounds, at Fort Erie, which have been recently improved and 
cared for. 

The Park is supported by franchises for power, railway, 
restaurant ^and other purposes, which yielded in 1906 a revenue 
of $81,675.' With the exception of about $8,000 received 
from the Inclined Railway and minor rentals, the mainte- 
nance of the New York Reservation is borne by the State. 



How to See Niagara. 



Of the six hundred thousand or more people who visit the 
Falls every year, the greater part remains only for periods 
ranging from one hour to one day. Although bridges and 
electric railways have greatly increased the earlier facilities 
for reaching points of interest, such short time is inadequate 
for seeing the whole of Niagara, or even all of its most 
striking features. It is, therefore, of much importance for 
the tourist, whose stay at Niagara must be brief, to know 
how he may utilize his time to the best advantage. The fol- 
lowing itineraries are planned to enable the visitor, whether 
his stay be short or long, to see the greatest possible amount 
in the time at his disposal. Although Niagara is now prac- 
tically free, it is well to remember that the tourist with 
limited time, who has already spent a considerable sum in 
reaching the Falls, may exercise economy by the judicious 
expenditure of a little more money in seeing them after his 
arrival. 

The arrangement of trips is based upon the time at the 
tourist's disposal. 

The letters in parentheses refer to detailed itineraries on suc- 
ceeding pages as follows: 

(A) Prospect Park and the American Fall Page 23 

(B) From Prospect Park around Goat Island '' 24 

(C) Cave of the Winds '* 28 

(D) Prospect Park to Horseshoe Fall via Upper 

Bridge ...'. '' 34 

(E) From Horseshoe Fall to Dufferin Islands " 44 

(F) Dufferin Islands to Burning Spring " 45 

(G) Dufferin Islands to Chippewa '' 46 

(H) Upper to Lower Arch Bridge, Canadian Side ... " 47 

(I) Lower Arch Bridge to Lundy's Lane '* 47 

17 



18 

(J) Lower Arch Bridge to Whirlpool Page 50 

(K) Saint David's Gorge " 55 

(L) Whirlpool to Niagara Glen " 57 

(M) Niagara Glen to Queenston and Lewiston " 60 

(N) Lewiston or Queenston to Niagara Falls '' 63 

(0) Niagara Falls, N. Y., to Suspension Bridge and 

Devils' Hole " 67 

(P) Geological, Devils' Hole to Lewiston " 69 

(Q) Excursions from Lewiston " 74 

(R) Excursion to Port Day " 34 

(S) To Factory of the Natural Food Co " 34 

(T) To Power House of Niagara Falls Power Co. ... " 34 

TRIP 1: From depots or Prospect Park entrance, 
American side. Time, one hour. 

Walk To Upper Arch Bridge and pass out to the middle. 
See trip (D). Return to bridge entrance, take right hand 
path and pass along edge of bank to American Fall (A). 
Omit descent of inclined railway. Follow rapids upwards 
from Prospect Point to Green Island Bridge : Return to park 
entrance : or 

Take Carriage for excursions (A) and (B), omitting descent 
by inclined railway. Stops will be brief at all points, and 
some may have to be left out altogether, or 

Take Carriage to Horseshoe Fall via Upper Arch Bridge 
(D). Make stop only at Table Rock. 

TRIP 2: Starting as in Trip 1. Time, two hours. 

Good pedestrians may cover excursions (A) and (B) in the 
time by omitting descent of inclined railway. The use of 
the reservation carriages shortens the time, makes the trip 
easier, and may enable the visitor to descend Inclined Rail- 
way. To avoid mistakes, defer descent until return from 
the islands. 

By Carriage, excursions (A) (B) and (D) may be covered, 
with short stops at principal points of interest. It is advised 
to begin with (D) and follow with (A) and (B) in succession. 



19 

Consult driver regarding time before making descent of inclined 
railway, or elevator. Or, to Lewiston and return by Gorge 
Route (N), or Belt Line trip across Upper Arch Bridge and 
around Lower Gorge (D) (J) (L) (M) (N). 

TRIP 3; Time Oi\e-ha.lf DslY (Four to Five Hours.) 

The use of the Reservation Carriages is recommended. Be- 
gin with (A) and include descent to foot of the American Fall. 
The trip on the Maid of the Mist may be included. Follow 
with (B). If the trip on the Maid of the Mist is taken there 
will hardly be time for (C). Otherwise this may be included. 
After returning to Prospect Park follow with (D). If an hour 
remains, take (E) ; if two, take the trip around the Gorge to 
Queenston, Lewiston, and back to Falls street without stop- 
ping off. 

Trip 4: One Da.y. 

From American side (A) (B) (C) (D) (E) to Lower Arch 
Bridge (J) (L) (M) (N). This trip constitutes a full day's 
work for a healthy person. By following it, however, the 
tourist will see twice as much in the time as he would be able 
to do unassisted. 

The trip to the Devil's Hole and return (0), may be easily 
made in half a day, or (0) and (P) in a day. For other trips 
see itineraries in detail. 

Itineraries. 

All electric cars entering Niagara Falls, N. Y., run to Pros- 
pect Park at the foot of Falls street, which is also the point of 
starting for sight-seers who have come by other conveyances. 
The International Railway (electric) has a waiting room on 
Riverway, nearly opposite the shelter in the park. This is the 
main terminal for the Buffalo Hne and also for the St. Catharines 
& Port Dalhousie line. Cars for the Horseshoe Fall and 
Gorge Route start in front of this terminal. Lavatories, infor- 
mation bureau, and ticket office in the waiting room. 

Upon ahghting, the American Rapids^ with the bridges to 
Green and Goat Islands, are seen on the left. In front, near 
the farther side of the park, towards the American Fall, is the 
stone upper station of the Inclined Railway. On the right, 



20 



near the Riverway, is the new Shelter, containing toilet rooms 
and the offices of the Superintendent, Clerk^ and Board of 
Commissioners. 



^iigij 



Slater, Photo. 
HENNEPIN'S VIEW-From Prospect Park. 



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, ,18. 




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Slater, Photo. 




Niehon, Photo. 



PROSPECT PARK IN WINTER. 



2'6 
(A) Prospect Park and the American Fall. 

From the foot of Falls street two paths lead through the 
park towards the falls. Following that on the right as far 
as the carriage drive, a sign board seen near the path be- 
yond marks Hennepin's View of the American and Horse- 
shoe Falls. Below this, the dock of the little steamer Maid 
of the Mist is seen at the water's edge, with the inclined 
railway to the left and nearer the fall. Across the river is 
the corresponding dock of the Maid with another inclined 
railway descending to it. Following the path downward, a 
walk of one to two minutes brings us to Prospect Point at 
the very edge of the American Fall, beyond which is Luna 
Island, separated from Goat Island beyond by the little Luna 
Fall. A path to the left leads upward along the edge of the 
rapids to Bath or Green Island Bridge. The contour line of 
the American Fall is 1060 feet ; height of fall, 167 feet. 

Descent to Foot of American Tall. 

The Upper Terminal Station near Prospect Point contains 
waiting and toilet rooms; good drinking water outside in 
the rear. Descent from here to the foot of the American 
Fall is attained by means of the inclined railway (fare five 
cents each way), or on foot by means of a stairway of 251 
steps (free). Toilet room in lower station. One-half to three- 
fourths hour should be allowed for this trip. Rubbers and 
waterproofs or umbrellas desirable. From the lower end of 
the railway the best view of the cataract from below is ob- 
tained. Caution should be used in approaching the falls, as 
a sudden change of wind is liable to drench the visitor. 

From the inclined railway a path descends on the right to 
the dock of the Maid of the Mist. The Upper Steel Arch 
Bridge is seen spanning the gorge beyond. The visitor may, 
if he wishes, now take the 

Trip on the Maid of the Mist. 

Fare, fifty cents, including waterproof suit. Ticket per- 
mits landing on Canadian side and return the same day. 
Time of trip, about one hour. 



24 
The little steamer passes to the left in front of the Amer- 
ican and Luna Falls and Goat Island, well up into the midst of 
the Horseshoe. Returning, it drops slowly down the river, 
usually making a landing on the Canadian side before reaching 
its point of starting. This trip more than any other im- 
presses the tourist with the power and majesty of the cata- 
ract. It should be taken if time permits. 

(B) From Prospect Park around Goat Island. 

This tour may be made on foot by a fairly good pedestrian 
in two hours, and if the tourist enjoys walking and is not 
pressed for time, that method will prove most satisfactory. 

The reservation roads are excellent for bicycling, and 
wheelmen will cover the same ground in about half the time 
required by pedestrians. 

Reservation carriages (page 12) leave the Inclined Railway 
Station every ten to fifteen minutes, and make the tour of 
the island, stopping at the principal points of interest. 
Purchase tickets at the station or of the driver. From Sep- 
tember first to November first the carriages are run at 
longer intervals, and after that are not to be depended upon. 

From the park we cross the bridge to Bath or Green Island, 
getting a fine view of the American Ra,pids on either hand. 

Above Green Island is a smaller one. Ship Island, and still 
farther up and nearer the American shore. Brig Island. Be- 
low Green Island are seen Robinson Island and Bird Island, 
the former nearer the American shore. Below Bird Island 
lies Crow Island, with Luna Island at the edge of the cata- 
ract, near the Goat Island shore. We now cross a second 
bridge to Goat Island, turn to the right and ascend to the 
plateau. The Shelter at the right affords rest and protection 
in case of rain, and contains lavatories and drinking water. 

HISTORICAL: In 1770 John Stedman, the survivor of the 
Devil's Hole massacre, cleared the upper part of the island 
and cultivated it. In the fall he brought over a number of 
domestic animals, all of which perished during the winter 
with the exception of a single male goat. From this 



circumstance the island took its name. The more euphonious 
title of *'Iris Island" was afterwards proposed by General 
Porter, a later owner, but the earlier name persisted and by 
that it is still called. (See Goat Island, by Peter A. Porter, 
Buffalo, 1900). 

BOTANICAL : Ice from the lakes above keeps the waters 
of the river cool and delays the growth of vegetation on the 
island until late in the spring ; but when it once begins, de- 
velopment of bud, flower and fruit is exceedingly rapid like 
that of sub-artic flora. David F. Day lists 909 species 
growing in the vicinity of Niagara Falls. While all of these 
are not found on Goat Island, ''probably no tract of land in 
its vicinity, so restricted in area, can be found exhibiting so 
large a number. ' ' For list of plants see 14th Annual Report 
Commissioners State Reservation, to be had at Superinten- 
dent's Office, Prospect Park. Permission to collect plants 
should be asked at the same place. 

GEOLOGICAL: The upper end of the island is of limestone 
thinly overlaid with soil. All the rest is covered with a de- 
posit of river gravel and sand which is thickest on the lower 
or western end, and contains numerous fresh-water shells of 
species now living in the Niagara River or Lake Erie, to- 
gether with a few which are extinct. Fragments of these 
shells may be seen in the edge of the bank between Luna and 
Horseshoe Falls and in the gravel pit (page 32). These 
gravels are part of a much larger deposit made when the 
river stood at a higher level. Gravels containing the same 
shells occur on the Canadian side and in Prospect Park at 
approximately the same height, indicating that they were 
formed at the same time and in the same manner. That 
they are post-glacial is proved by the fact that they are 
underlaid by red glacial clays and contain granitic bowlders 
which must have been brought here by glacial agencies. 

A monograph on the fresh-water shells above referred to 
has been published by Miss J. E. Letson, Curator of the 
Buffalo Society of Natural Sciences. 




AMERICAN FALL FROM GOAT ISLAND. 



Slater, Photo. 



From the Shelter the path and carriage drive follow the 
bank to Luna Fall, where a stop is made. A stairway leads 
downward, from which several fine views of Luna Fall and 
the American Fall are obtained, with Prospect Park and the 
Observation Tower in the background. 

The bridge of red Medina sandstone at the bottom of the 
stairs leads across to Luna Island. Turning to the left 
after crossing the bridge we arrive at the brink of Luna 
Fall. The wooden bridge skirting the fall below is used for 
access to the Cave of the Winds. On the opposite side of the 
island we obtain a Near View of the American Fall, and the 
gorge beyond. The ravine opposite the center of the Amer- 
ican Fall is 1700 feet wide. 

Returning to the top of the stairway the visitor may again 
enter the carriage or walk south to the Biddle Stairs (20 to 
30 rods) where is the entrance to the Cave of the Winds. 

(C) Excursion to the Cave of the Wir\ds, 45 minutes to 1 hour. 

Descent to the base of the cliff by means of the stairs is 
free. To visit the cave, obtain guide and waterproof suit at 
the entrance. (Fee for both, one dollar. Valuables should 
be left in charge of attendant.) A spiral staircase descends 
to the base of the Niagara limestone. From the foot of the 
stairway, a poorly kept path turns to the left towards the 
Horseshoe. Following the path to the right along the base 
of the cliff, a walk of one minute or less brings you to Luna 
Fall, behind which is the cave. This may be entered from 
either side; but it is customary to approach it from the 
American Fall. The guide conducts you down the stairway 
to the left, across the bridges in front of Luna Fall to a 
point between it and the American Fall. On bright days 
circular rainbows may be seen during the passage, especially 
in the afternoon. The cave, a natural chamber about 100 x 
78 feet in dimension, and more than 100 feet high, has been 
hollowed out by the erosion of water projected against the 
cliff by air-blasts. 

The return is made through the cavern behind the fall. 



LUNA FALL FROM BELOW. 



Slater, Photo. 



30 

Fierce blasts of wind propelling sheets of falling water 
assail the visitor at every step and make of this a novel and 
memorable experience. 

Near the water's edge, between Luna Fall and the Biddle 
Staircase, Sam Patch made one of his famous leaps in 1829. 
A ladder with its base against the rocks was supported by 
ropes attached to the cliff above so that the top overhung 
the river. From a platform on the apex of this structure 
he made his plunge of 95 feet into the water below. He 
lost his life in making a similar jump at Rochester, N. Y., 
November 13 of the same year. 

We return by the stairway to the top of the cliff. 

From the Biddle Stairs the carriage or a pleasant walk of 
three to five minutes takes one to the Horseshoe Fall View, 
from which the Canadian Fall is seen to advantage. At the 
apex of the angle where the waters meet for their plunge 
into the gulf below, geyser-like jets of spray may be seen 
to shoot at short intervals upward above the edge of the 
fall. These are probably caused by the bursting of giant 
bubbles (see page 43). The gorge is here 1250 feet in 
width. From the platform a stairway descends to the level 
of the river, whence a walk guarded by railings leads out- 
ward to Terrapin Rock at the very edge of the fall. 

Near the present terminus of the walk, a stone structure 
called Terrapin Tower was built in 1833. It was a round 
tower 43 feet high, 12 feet in diameter at the base and 8 
feet at the top, where there was a gallery commanding a 
near view of the Horseshoe and the gulf below. Owing to 
its proximity to the retreating edge of the fall, it came to 
be considered unsafe and was blown up with gunpowder in 
1873. 

Returning to the top of the stairway, we find by the drive 
a pavilion for shelter, and opposite on the edge of the bank 
a drinking fountain with excellent cool water. The carriage 
may be resumed or the trip continued on foot. Two fine 
views of the rapids and Horseshoe may be seen within two 




TERRAPIN ROCK FROM GOAT ISLAND. 



^'tjtct , Hhoto. 



33 

minutes' walk upstream, the better being where a rustic 
bench stands near a basswood tree. The stone building 
seen on the brow of the hill across the river is the St. 
Loretto Convent (page 49). About 75 yards farther on a 
road leads to the left towards the gravel pits, the best place 
on the island to see the fresh water shells mentioned on 
page 26. 

Beyond the road to the gravel pit the island near the edge 
of the water is protected by crib work. This was rendered 
necessary by the high water of 1889, which undermined the 
bank so as to endanger the roadway. About 300 yards far- 
ther on we pass a large pavilion on the left, and stop at 
Three Sisters Islands. A stone bridge with a small fall, the 
Hermit's Cascade, above it extends to the First Sister. The 
First and Second, and the Second and Third Sisters are con- 
nected by suspension bridges, the last spanning a pretty fall, 
below and to the left of which is Little Brother Island, sepa- 
rated from the Third Sister by swift water. From the 
upper end of the Third Sister is an unsurpassed view of the 
Canadian Rapids. Another, nearly as good, may be had 
from the lower end, looking toward the Canadian shore. 

In 1829 Francis Abbott, known as the ''Hermit of the 
Falls," came here and occupied a hut on the northeasterly 
side of the island, living with no companions except a cat 
and dog. He was a refined, scholarly man, writing much but 
immediately destroying his work. His favorite pastimes 
were playing on a flute or guitar, and bathing, for which 
latter purpose he used the pool nearly under the fall now 
called after him. (Read Porter's ''Goat Island" and the 
"Guide to Niagara Falls, " by F. H. Severance, page 29.) 

To return to Prospect Park from the stone bridge, we may 
take the road leading north past the pavilion to Green Island 
Bridge, or the preferable road which skirts the upper end of 
Goat Island. The latter route is that followed by the reser- 
vation carriages, which stop at The Spring, a small fountain 
of clear, cool water, reached by an easy stairway. From 




A. IV. bayard, Photo. 
CANADIAN RAPIDS FROM THIRD SISTER ISLAND. 




/. P. Bishop, Photo. 
PATH NEAR HORSESHOE FALL-Winter. 



34 

Here the carriage returns to Prospect Park via Green Island 
and Falls street, where connections are made with electric 
cars. 

(R) To Port Day. 

From the Green Island Bridge entrance, a driveway and 
path extend parallel with the river through a beautiful park 
upward along the American shore as far as Port Day. The 
lower part affords some fine views of the Rapids, and the 
upper a glance at the smooth water above them and of the 
great manufacturing plants beyond the power canal. The 
trip makes an exceedingly pleasant walk or drive of one-half 
to three-quarters of an hour, returning from Port Day by 
the same route, or by Quay, Erie, -and Falls streets to Pros- 
pect Park. 

(S) To Factory of the Natural Food Company. 

While on the Port Day trip, it is advised to visit the factory 
of the Natural Food Co. on Buffalo avenue. No admission 
fee. The building, of yellow brick^ fronting a small park, is a 
conspicuous object near the head of the rapids. It is specially 
interesting for the sanitary and social advantages provided for 
the employees. There are tiled bathrooms and lavatories 
containing porcelain-lined tubs for women, and shower baths 
for men. On the lower floor is a dining room for employees; 
the second floor contains an audience room with seats for 
more than 500 people, where lectures, concerts, and other enter- 
tainments of high grade are given free to the employees. A 
uniformed attendant conducts tourists through the building. 
The trip ends in the room to the right of the entrance, where 
dishes containing the products of the factory are served by 
attendants. 

The factory may also be reached from the N. Y. Central 
Depot via Third street. 

(T) To the Power House of the Niagara Falls Power Co. 

The power house may be reached from Falls street or Pros- 
pect Park by street cars in 5 minutes. The entrance is from 
power house No. 2 beyond the intake canal. Tickets are pro- 
cured from the attendant at the head of the stairs leading 



35 

up from the main entrance; fee, 25 cents. You pass through 
the doorway on the right into a gallery looking down upon 
generators, switchboard, and other apparatus used in trans- 
mitting electrical power. At the left is a model of one of the 
turbines used in the plant. An attendant explains the working 
of the power system, and conducts you through the plant. An 
elevator descends from the gallery to the bottom of the wheel 
pit, giving an excellent view of the installation of machinery. 
At 'the bottom you pass through a tunnel, under the intake, 
and return to the surface by another elevator in power house 
No. 1. A folder containing a full description of the plant and 
equipment is furnished by the attendant. As a rule the trans- 
former house is not shown to visitors, the risk from possible 
contact with wires carrying high voltage currents being too 
great. This trip cannot fail to interest, and should be taken 
if time permits. Time, about 45 minutes. 

(D) From Prospect Park to Horseshoe Fall by Way of Upper Arch 
Bridge. Running Time by the Electric Railway, 20 Minvites. 

Electric cars start from the International Railway terminal 
on Riverway, running direct to the Horseshoe. Tickets, 
whether for the Horseshoe or Gorge Route trip, include bridge 
fare, and permit stop-off at leading points of interest. Ask 
conductor jor transjer check each time you leave the car. Car- 
riages may usually be found at the foot of Falls street. Pedes- 
trians and occupants of carriages purchase bridge tickets at 
the bridge entrance. (Fare and Customs, page 15.) It is 
advised, however, to walk or drive slowly across the bridge, 
which affords the best General View of the Falls. Looking up 
the river. Prospect Park Hes on the left, with the Inclined Rail- 
way descending to the river. Between the railway terminal 
and the bridge is the dock of the steamer Maid of the Mist. 
Beyond the railway are seen in succession the American Fall, 
Luna Island, with the narrow Luna Fall separating it from 
Goat Island, and beyond Goat Island the Horseshoe Fall On 
the Canadian side above the bridge is seen the Inclined Railway, 
extending down to the Maid of the Mist landing. Farther up, 
near the Fall, is the power house of the Ontario Power Co. Be- 
low, on the American side, is the outlet of the Niagara Falls 



36 
Power Company's Tunnel, with the city trunk sewer opening 
beyond. The Clinton limestone outcrops just above the 
mouth of the tunnel, the red Medina rock shows below. The 
first building near the water's edge is the pulp-mill of the 
Cliff Paper Company, next to which is the power house of 
the Niagara Falls Hydraulic and Manufacturing Company. 
The Cantilever Bridge and the Lower Steel Arch Railway 
Bridge (page 15) are seen in the distance. After crossing 




AMERICAN FALL FROM CANADIAN SIDE. 



the bridge we turn to the left, passing the stately new Clifton 
House. At the edge of the bank is the Bazaar and Upper 
Terminal Station oj the Inclined Railway, and the ticket office 
for the Maid of the Mist. Railway fare, five cents each way. 
For the Maid of the Mist, see page 23.) A superb View of the 
American and Luna Falls is obtained from the window (free). 

Beyond the Terminal Station we pass the Ferry Road on 
the left (descent free). The building on the right was formerly 
the office of the Park Superintendent, but is now used as a 



H! 



ICE BRIDGE. 



lavatory. The stone summer-house at the left, ''Ramblers^ 
Rest,'^ is a particularly good point from which to see the oppo- 
site falls. ^'Inspiration Point/^ the next shelter beyond, is 
the favorite prospect, although other vistas nearly as good 
open in several places all the way to the New Refectory. 




ICE MOUNDS— American Fall. 



39 

Just before reachinoj this we pass on our right a monument 
to Col. Sir Casimir Gzowski, chairman of the first board of 
commissioners of Victoria Park. 



/. p. Bishop, Photo. 
HORSESHOE FALL FROM ABOVE. 

The new Refectory and Shelter with the fountain in front con- 
tains an excellent restaurant and toilet rooms. The office of 
the Park Superintendent is on the second floor. Beyond the 
Refectory on the right is the stone spillway of the Ontario 
Power Co. The Power House is at the foot of the cliff, and 
may be seen from the railed sidewalk opposite. The small 
stone building beyond the spillway is the entrance to the offices 
of the same company. A long tunnel leads back from the 
entrance, and communicates with elevators conveying passen- 
gers to the power house below and to the offices and grounds 
above. A grand view of the Falls and Rapids is obtained from 
the upper landing. A guide is furnished on application to the 
attendant at the tunnel entrance. Fee, 50 cents. (For descrip- 
tion of the Ontario Power Co.'s plant see index.) 

The stone building nearest the fall is the Table Rock House, 
used as a bazaar for the sale of curios, and as the entrance to a 
passage under the Horseshoe Falls. Fee for trip, including 
guide and waterproof suit, 50 cents. Dressing room in the 
rear. An electric elevator lowers you down a shaft 100 feet 
deep. From the foot of the shaft a tunnel said to be 750 feet 
long leads outward parallel with the edge of the fall, and under 
the sheet of falling water. Vistas at suitable intervals per- 
mit excellent views of the gorge and falls from below. The 



40 

trip is an interesting one and well worth the outlay of time and 
money. Time of trip, 30 to 40 minutes. We now arrive at 
Table Rock and the Canadian or Horseshoe Fall, generally 
regarded as the grandest part of Niagara 

The crest line of this fall was, in 1890, 3,010 feet long, 
and probably exceeds that length now, as the center is 
continually receding. The height at the apex of the 
curve is 158 feet. About nine-tenths of the volume of 
the river follows this channel. Father Louis Hennepin, who 
visited the Falls in December, 1678, and who gave the first 
written account of them, described a third fall dropping into 
the chasm from the west a short distance above the spot 
where the elevator now stands. An overhanging ledge 
called Table Rock marked the supposed site of this fall until 
about fifty years ago, when the greater part of the ledge 
broke off and dropped into the gorge below. The name, 
however, is still retained for the railed-in space nearest the 
brink of the fall. 

A Cold Water Geyser. 

At the apex of the angle where the waters plunge from 
both sides into the abyss below, geyser-like jets of water 
shoot upwards at intervals of a few seconds above the crest 
of the Falls. Accompanying them may be heard dull explo- 
sions like the sound of distant cannon. Some of these jets 
are 200 feet high from base to apex, and residents in that 
vicinity report them as being at least 250 feet high at times. 
The cause of them has been the subject of much discussion but 
the probable explanation is this : Water, like any other fall- 
ing body, increases its velocity the longer it falls, and the 
lower parts tend to separate from those above, thus produc- 
ing "suction" and drawing air into the stream. It is 
this air which gives the dazzling whiteness to the falling 
sheet. The descending water column carries the air far 
down into the river, here probably 160 or more feet deep, 
the inertia of the falling mass and the weight of the water 
compressing the air to a small part of its original volume. 




/. p. Bishci riot. 
EFFECTS OF AIR EXPLOSIONS —Horseshoe Fall. 



43 

The air bubbles finally reach a depth where their buoyancy 
overcomes the force which carried them down, and many of 
them coalesce to form giant bubbles which begin to rise 
towards the surface. As they move upward, the pressure 
of the water above them becomes less, they expand rapidly 
and when near the surface burst, throwing the water high 
into the air. That the jets are not caused by explosions be- 
hind the cataract is proven by the fact that the jets rise 




Nidsou, Photo. 



CANADIAN FALL FROM TABLE ROCK. 



44 

outside the falling sheet of water. The above-water erosion 
behind the fall is also probably due to the action of water 
driven by air currents. Unless the wind is contrary there is 
usually a stiff breeze, generated by the waterfall, blowing out of 
the gorge at Table Rock . This is often strong enough to inter- 
fere with the carrying of umbrellas, and generally at variance 
with the prevailing air currents outside. 

(K) From HorsesKoe Faults to Dufferln Isla^nds. 

The Dufferin Islands may be reached from Table Rock by 
trolley in 5 minutes (fare 10 cents) or on foot in 10 or 15 min- 
utes. Former visitors to Niagara will find this part much 
changed. The rock excavated during the construction of the 
several electric power plants has been used to extend the shore 
line and has thereby narrowed the rapids by the same amount. 
The work of reconstructing this part of the park is now in prog- 
ress (1907), but will probably take four or five years to com- 
plete. At present the ground is littered with machinery and 
the debris of construction. The commissioners' plans indicate 
that, when completed, the river front will be a beautiful spot. 

Above the Horseshoe we first pass the stone pumping station, 
beyond which is the electric power house which supphes power 
to the adjacent trolley line. The large building which we pass 
next is the power house of the Canadian Niagara Power Co. 
Permit to enter may be obtained at the frame office building 
near the tracks. A guide is furnished (fee, 25 cents), who con- 
ducts the visitor through the works and by means of an elevator 
to the wheel pits, 122 feet below the surface. Printed folders 
containing information about this and the plant of the Niagara 
Falls Power Co., on the American side, are furnished free. For 
detailed description of the plant refer to index. 

The large building on the left, that we next pass, is the power 
house of the Electrical Development Co. of Ontario, now in 
process of construction. It is of the style of the Italian Re- 
naissance, and when completed will be 500 feet long and 70 
feet wide. The front is of Indiana limestone. Although 
incomplete, visitors may be admitted upon application at the 
ivy-covered cottage opposite. For description of plant refer 
to index. 



45 

The large white building next beyond on the left is the gate 
house of the Ontario Power Co. Water is here admitted to a 
steel tube 10 feet in diameter, which conveys it to the turbines 
in the power house at the foot of the Horseshoe. The screen 
house in the rear of the gate house admits water to the forebay, 
from which it enters the steel tube. Stairways at either end 
lead to a promenade on the roof of the screen house, from which 
a fine view of the rapids may be obtained. The rapids are 
here nearly a mile wide and have a fall of about 56 feet from 
their head to the apex of the Horseshoe. Looking across 
towards the Three Sisters Islands, the rushing, tumbling waters 
afford a beautiful spectacle not unlike the ocean in a storm— 
a most interesting part of Niagara, too often missed by those 
who follow the conventional route of travel. From the gate 
house a path leads to the shelter opposite, which serves as a 
station of the electric railway. Well-kept walks extend 
through the islands in rear of the station, forming a delightful 
promenade for a warm summer day. 



(F) To tKe Bvirnirvg Spring, one-KaLlf mile, 45 minvites. 

At the foot of the bluff, across the bridge leading: from the 
station, was the old Burning Spring, now extinct. It con- 
sisted of a jet of natural gas which bubbled up through the 
water from a crevice in the limestone beneath, and was 
ignited for the delectation of visitors. Turning to the right 
at the end of the bridge, we follow the road up the hill. 
The wooden building seen in front after reaching the top 
contains a bazaar and the Burning Spring. (Admission to 
the latter, 50 cents.) A jet of sulphuretted hydrogen gas is 
allowed by the attendant to bubble up through a muddy pool 
in a darkened room. When ignited, the gas burns to the 
height of three to five feet. People liking an exhibition of 
this nature will feel repaid for their visit to it. From the 
Burning Spring carriages may return, if desired, by way of 
Loretto Convent and Lundy's Lane. 



4G 
(G) From D\jfferin Islands to CKippaw^aL. 

The electric railway follows the river bank to Chippewa 
Creek, crossing the stream within the village limits. Chip- 
pawa is a very old town and at one time was of considerable 
importance as the upper terminus of the portage from 
Queenston. It derives its special distinction from the battle 
w^hich was fought there July 5, 1814. (Seep. 90.) On the 
morning of that day the British were encamped on the north 
side of the creek. The battle in the afternoon took place 
on the plain south of the village. The remains of the Brit- 




Slatcr. Photo. 
LOOKING OUT OF CHIPPAWA CREEK.-Old Battlefield. 



ish earthworks are still to be seen where the creek joins the 
river. A skeleton which, from the articles found near it, 
was evidently that of a British soldier, was dug up in 1899 
by workmen repairing the electric railway tracks nearly op- 
posite the old wharf. Hotel, the Baltimore House, unpre- 
tentious but well spoken of. 
We return to the Upper Arch bridge by car. 



47 

(H) From Upper Steel Arch Bridge to Lower Arch Bridge, 
Canadian Side Pedestrian.* 

GEOLOGICAL: Opposite the end of the bridge, looking 
west, are seen three terraces indicating former and higher 
stages of the river. These may be traced, with short inter- 
ruptions, to the whirlpool and beyond. Crossing the road 
and following the walk north on the left-hand side, a few 
steps brings us to a quarry where nodules of massive gyp- 
sum occur together with other crystalline minerals. A lit- 
tle farther on, almost opposite the manufacturing establish- 
ments to be seen across the river, an excavation in the 
gravel bank to the left of the walk shows fairly good speci- 
mens of fresh water shells. (See page 26). Ascending the 
first gentle rise of ground, the iron fence skirting the road- 
way turns abruptly to the right, enclosing a projecting bluff. 
At the north end of this is a possible but difficult descent to 
the base of the cliff, (dangerous.) A small platform on the 
right hand at the second bend in the road beyond, marks the 
site of an iron ladder (private), also used for descent. Just 
before reaching the cantilever bridge, the tracks of the Niag- 
ara Gorge Electric Railway may be seen traversing obliquely 
the bank on the American side. This walk also affords a 
good view of the still water between the upper and lower steel 
arch bridges. Pleasant but not specially attractive. Time, 
fifty minutes. Distance, about one and three-quarter miles. 

(I) From Lo^ver Arch Bridge to Lundy's Lane and Loretto 
Convent by Electric FLail-way. 

The Niagara Falls, Wesley Park and Clifton Tramway 
Company's electric cars leave the Lower Arch Bridge every 
twenty minutes from 6.15 a.m. to ILOO p.m. (first car Sun- 
days, 8.L5 a.m.) In winter the cars may run at longer 
intervals and the time of leavinj^ and returning should be 
ascertained from the conductor or the company's office at the 
intersection of this line with that of the N. F. Park R'y. 

* Where no stops are made by the tourist the trip by Electric car from 
the Horseshoe to Queenston takes 55 minutes: from Queenston across the 
bridge to the Junction, 5 minutes more. 



49 

Those wishing to reach Lundy's Lane from the Upper Arch 
Bridge may walk or ride up the hill past the Clifton House, 
taking the car at Ferry street (Niagara Falls Central). 

From the Lower Arch Bridge the car runs up the hill near 
both railroad depots, skirts the edge of Wesley Park, and, 
after passing Niagara Falls Central runs westward to Drum- 
mondsville (Niagara Falls South). Alighting where the 
road turns to the left, a walk of two to three minutes directly 
up the hill brings us to the Lundy's Lane battlefield. (See p. 9L) 

The old cemetery crowning the hill on the left hand was 
the scene of the principal struggle in that memorable fight, and 
many who fell that day are buried there. The location of the 
battery and other points of interest are marked by wooden sign- 
boards. Across the road is a steel Observation Tower, from 
which a panorama of the Falls and battlefield may be seen, 
but which is not in use this year (1907). Dinner or lunch may 
be obtained at the hotels if desired (Page 12). 

From Drummondsville the electric car takes us in four 
minutes to the end of the line. At the terminus we look 
down upon Falls View Station of the Michigan Central R. R., 
and obtain another magnificent View of the Canadian Rapids, 
Horseshoe Fall and the gorge below. (All passenger trains 
of the M. C. R. R. stop here and allow travelers to alight.) 

The stone building nearest the station is the Loretto Con- 
vent. Beyond this and on the same side is the Monastery and 
Hospice conducted by the Carmelite Order. The hospice is 
lighted and heated by electricity, and all the cooking is done 
by the same agency. About 200 acres of land adjoining are 
owned by the Fathers, who intend to beautify the landscape 
with spacious gardens, and also to add considerably to the 
buildings now in use. Guests are received for rest or retreat. 
(Rates given on page 12.) 



50 
(J) Lower ArcK Bridge to the Whirlpool. 

It is recommended to walk out upon the Steel Arch Bridge 
(fee ten cents) for the excellent view of the Whirlpool 
Rapids — three-quarters of a mile long. The water in the 
swiftest part below is estimated by Gilbert at about 35 feet 
deep. Under the Cantilever Bridge its measured depth is 75 
feet. The outlook up and down the river presents cer- 
tain aspects not easily seen elsewhere, and which well re- 
pay the outlay of time and money. 

A short distance below the bridge on the right hand is 
the entrance to the Inclined Railway^ where descent may be 
made by a track 300 feet long to the edge of the rapids 
below (fare 50 cents). A plank walk skirts the rapids for 
some distance and practically controls the only Near View 
of them from the Canadian side. In the middle of 
the stream the water is slightly higher than at the shore, 
due, it is thought, to the reflection of waves from the 
opposite banks. 

Returning to the entrance we walk northward past the 
end of the Inclined Railway enclosure, and obtain the best 
View of the Rapids from the top of the bank. The gorge is 
here 750 to 850 feet wide. 

GEOLOGICAL: The hard, grey band of rock seen at 
the top of the opposite bank is the Niagara Limestone 
underlaid by a darker and softer stratum, the Niagara 
Shale. Below this is a narrower stratum of hard rock, 
the Clinton Limestone, with a layer, one to three feet 
thick, of greenish Clinton Shale under it. The reddish 
sandstones and shales extending from this down to the 
railroad track belong to the upper part of the Medina. 
The strata occur in the same relative position on both sides 
of the gorge through its entire extent. Owing to the fact 
that the rocks are inclined, or dip, to the south, the 
Clinton passes below the water near the Upper Arch Bridge, 
and for the same reason lower strata appear in sight below 
the Whirlpool. 




! Niagara 
Limestone 



_ Niagara 
Shale 



Clinton 
Limestone 



Medina 
Sandstone 



/. P. Bishop, Photo. 
GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF GORGE, OPPOSITE THE RAPIDS. 
American Side. 



53 

After crossing the little stream which falls over the cliff, 
a gravel pit is seen in the field on the left hand. This con- 
tains fluviatile shells like those referred to elsewhere (pages 
26 and 32). 

From the rapids the electric car in five minutes, or a walk 
of one-half hour, takes you to the whirlpool. Stops are 
regularly made at the upper and lower ends, but passengers 
will be set down or taken on at almost any point upon signal 
to the conductor. If the visitor makes but one of the two 
stops the lower is preferable. The car skirts the edge of 
the bank, crosses Bowman's Creek on a high steel bridge 
(distant view of the rapids) and stops at the Whirlpool Sta- 
tion. A path from the rear leads to the rustic shelter over- 
looking the Whirlpool at its outlet. The gorge is here 900 feet 
wide at the top, and 400 feet at the bottom. On the 
opposite side are the grounds of the DeVeaux College. 
The Gorge Electric Railway rounds the base of the cliff 
below. 

The water after its tumultuous passage through the rapids 
pours into the whirlpool basin, impinges upon the opposite 
bank, turns to the left and follows the shore back nearly to 
the point of entrance. The waters become heaped up here, 
dive under the incoming stream almost at right angles and 
escape by the outlet. In the eddy near the center of the 
pool, logs, boards and other objects float for weeks to- 
gether, now sucked down by the outgoing currents or return- 
ing again to the surface by a ''boiler" from below. The 
bodies of those who have been drowned above the Falls, 
becoming distended with gases, usually rise in the whirlpool 
and are recovered after having been tossed upon its bosom 
for several days. Good geologists believe the pool to be 200 
feet deep. 

Descent to the whirlpool may be made by a path leading 
down the bank from the railway tracks about 150 yards west 
of the whirlpool station. A second path descends from the 
west end of the steel bridge across Bowman's Creek.' A 



56 

third starts nearly opposite the Whirlpool. Following the 
last, which is steep and difficult, we cross in a few minutes 
a small stream which makes a fall 12 to 15 feet over the 
Clinton Limestone. The final descent at the bottom is by 
means of a ladder which spans a portion of the Quartzose 
Sandstone, also seen near the water's edge at the outlet 
opposite. 

On the left bank of Bowman's Creek, at its mouth, is an 
exposure of stratified gravels and clays, probably an old delta 
deposit. Its only interest lies in its possible connection 
with the history of the old St. David's Channel. (See below). 

Although the scenery which is reached by this descent is 
beautiful and picturesque, it will hardly repay, except in the 
case of those fond of climbing, the labor involved in getting 
to and from it. This is more especially evident when we 
consider how easily the Whirlpool is reached from the Amer- 
ican side. 

Ascending by the same route the path divides a short dis- 
tance above the water. Following the right hand branch 
we reach the top at the west end of the steel bridge over 
Bowman's Creek. 

(K) TKe St. David's Gorge. 

GEOLOGICAL : Striae and other marks of glaciation are 
seen on the rocks along the landward side of the path by 
which we have just ascended. Similar markings are also 
found on rock in place on the same side of Bowman's Creek 
above the iron bridge, the last rock exposure being where a 
lateral stream falls into the gorge about one-quarter mile 
above that structure. To see the ground in a satisfactory 
' way from the Whirlpool to St. David's, it is necessary to go 
on foot. From the iron bridge to the head of Bowman's 
Creek the left bank is the easier traveling, the other the 
more interesting. After reaching the head of the creek, 
follow the highway to the left as far as the railroad, then 
proceed northwestward along the tracks. About two miles 



57 

further on, before reaching the escarpment are immense 
beds of gravel. The trip is a hard tramp and of no special 
interest except to those interested in glacial geology. 

(L) From tKe Whirlpool to Niagara Glen 

Is a ride of two to three miles by trolley. Alighting at 
the platform which serves as the Glen station descend the 
first terrace and take the right hand path at the fork. The 
plateau upon which you now are is Wintergreen Flat. A 
walk of one or two minutes along the brink takes you to the 
top of a stairway. About 100 feet north is a precipice over 
which the river once made a fall when cutting its way back- 
ward. The low plain at the base of the cliff is Foster's Flat. 
We descend by the substantial stairway nearly to the base 
of the Niagara Limestone. In the loose sand at the base of 
the cliff on the right are numerous small conical pits, the 
traps of ant lions. The path zig-zags downward to a second 
stairway, at the foot of which the path forks. The left hand 
branch winds down to the flat below among huge fragments 
fallen from the overhanging cliff. Following the right hand 
path a walk of a minute takes you to another stairway span- 
ning the Clinton Limestone, and thence downward to the river 
bank where are picnic grounds and shelter. Paths extend 
up and down the river, which is here very swift, or branch in 
various directions through the woods. From the picnic 
grounds a path on the right hand leads up stream. Follow- 
ing this for about one-quarter of a mile a branch descends 
on the left to a Spring of good, cold water. The main path- 
way continues on toward the cove above, passing on the way 
a number of pot holes formed by stones moved by gyratory 
currents when the river w^as at a higher stage. The Niagara 
Glen is the wildest and most romantic spot in the whole 
gorge, or perhaps even in Western New York. Since the 
Park Commissioners have made it accessible it is fast grow- 
ing in popularity, and in a few years will be as well known ag 
any part of Niagara. 



58 
BOTANICAL: The park contains many plants not very 
common in the vicinity of Niagara, and is particularly rich 
in ferns. A list of the flora found on the Victoria Park 
Reservation may be had by applying to the Super- 
intendent at his office. Day's list of plants growing near 
Niagara will be found in the 14th Annual Report, Commis- 
sioners New York State Reservation at Niagara, 1896-7. It 
may be obtained from the Superintendent at Prospect Park. 



#^^^ 




/. p. Bishop, Photo. 
GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF THE GORGE FROM FOSTER'S FLATS. 

G. K, Gilbert supposes that when the Falls had receded to 
Wintergreen Flat the greater volume of water flowed neat* 
the American bank, where, in consequence, recession was 
more rapid. The thinner stream flowing near the Canadian 
side was insuflicient to remove the blocks of limestone as 
they fell from the cliff, and therefore we find them scattered 
about at the base on Foster's Flats. After a time the 











Koonz, Photo 



BROCK S MONUMENT. 



60 
erosion upon the eastern side deepened the river bed and 
left Wintergreen Flat dry. While this work was in progress, 
the conditions now existing at the Falls were reversed, the 
larger cataract being upon the American side. 

A few rods north of Wintergreen Flat another path cut in 
the rock descends to the glen below. Rattlesnakes are 
occasionally met near the lower end of this path. 

(M) Frorrv Niagara Glerv to Qvieervston and Lewistorv. 

The electric car runs sufficiently near the edge of the bank 
to afford good views of the river. Below Foster's Flats the 
DeviVs Hole Glen is seen across the river, with the stone 
buildings of Niagara University crowning the elevation to 
the left. . In front of the university the tracks of the N. 
Y. C. R. R. descend obliquely towards Lewiston. 

The car makes its next stop at Brock's Monument, which is 
reached from the station by the path at the left in two to 
five minutes. The monument marks the tomb of Maj. Gen. 
Sir Isaac Brock, K. B., who was mortally wounded in 
the battle which took place here October 13, 1812. The 
column is of the Roman composite order, with fluted shaft, 
standing upon a square pedestal and surmounted by a statue 
of the hero, the whole structure being 190 feet high. En- 
trance is from the eastern side. A stairway of 235 steps 
ascends to a gallery at the top of the column (fee 25 cents), 
from which a magnificent View is obtained. Those unable 
or unwilling to climb the column will get an almost equally 
good prospect from the escarpment in front of the monu- 
ment. Two hundred and fifty feet below is the river, with 
Qaeenston at our feet and Lewiston on the opposite side. 

The final struggle in the Battle of Queenston took place 
on the gentle slope southeast of the monument. In the woods 
back of that structure old earthworks still remain, although 
much eroded by time. They did not exist at the time of the 
battle but were erected later, probably in 1814. 



02 




/. P. Bishop, Photo. 
REMAINS OF OLD EARTHWORK NEAR BROCK's MONUMENT. 

From the bluff in front of the monument a path and stair- 
way descend directly to Queenston, Returning to the elec- 
tric railway station pedestrians may descend by the roadway 
or by a steep and difficult path from the summer house at 
the edge of the gorge beyond. The latter terminates near 
the Suspension Bridge entrance and saves those athletically 
inclined about half a mile of travel. 

The electric car descends to the west along the face of 
the bluff, turns again eastward and enters Queenston. Just 
before reaching the village we pass on the left a low Monu- 
ment erected by H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, in 1860, and 
marking the spot where Gen. Brock was shot. At the vil- 
lage one branch of the railway descends to the steamboat 
wharf, where connections are made with the Toronto steam- 
ers (page 74) and the Lewiston ferry, while the other branch 
continues onward to the Suspension Bridge. 



63 

Queenston, next to Niagara-on-the-Lake the oldest town 
on the Canadian side, was at one time of considerable impor- 
tance as the beginning of the portage from the lower river 
to Chippawa. At present it is much frequented in summer 
by residents of the cities who come here for rest and angling. 
The two hotels, the Wadsworth House and the Alexandra House, 
are near the electric railway. Rates: $1.50 per day; dinner, 50 
cents; other meals, 35 cents. 

After leaving Queenston, the car crosses the Suspension 
bridge (customs and fares, page 15) and runs down the river to 
Lewiston, where connections may be made with electric car to 
Youngstown, the Toronto Steamers and the N. Y. Central 
R. R. trains to Buffalo, (For Lewiston, see p. 73.) 

(N) From Lew^iston or Queenston to Niagara Falls by the Gorge 
Electric R^ailway. Kunning Time, 30-40 Minutes. 

Returning to Niagara Falls, the car proceeds southward 
underneath the Suspension bridge. Just before reaching 
Fish's Creek, which makes a pretty fall on the left, we pass the 




/. p. Bidwp, Photo. 
LOOKING UP THE GORGE FROM LEWISTON, 



G4 

site of Old Fort Gray^ which stood at the top of the bluff above. 
The river now becomes more turbulent, and we soon have on 
our right the DeviFs Hole Rapids, extending to the Devil's Hole, 
where the first stop is made. From the station a path 
ascends to the glen. The DeviVs Pulpit, the scene of the British 
massacre in 1763 (page 88), overhangs the gorge above. 

The Upper DeviVs Hole Rapids extend from the Devil's 
Hole upward nearly to the Whirlpool. Near the upper end 
we pass Giant Rock, a huge fragment fallen from the cliff 
above and menacing the traveler from the river side. Across 
the river are Foster's Flats (page 57). 

Farther on we arrive at the Whirlpool (p. 53), where a stop 
is desirable. Opposite is the mouth of Bowman's Creek, 
the supposed entrance to the former St. David's Channel. 

At the edge of the Whirlpool is an outcrop of the Quartz- 
ose Sandstone, with the higher strata seen in the walls of 




/. T. Bishop, Photo. 



GIANT ROCK. 



65 
the gorge near the outlet. Above the Whirlpool we reach 
the rushing waters of the Whirlpool Rapids tumbling down- 
wards with irresistible force and grandeur. They increase 
in fury and impetuosity as we proceed up-stream, reaching 
their climax near the Rapids Station, where a stop is advised. 
At night in summer the water is illuminated by colored 
electric lightS; forming a scene of wondrous beauty. 

Through the Rapids. 

In 1861, Joel Robinson, with an engineer and assistant, 
piloted the Maid of the Mist, one of the earlier steamers of 
that name, through the Rapids to Lewiston. The trip was 
accomplished in safety, although the boat suffered some 
injury. On August 28, 1887, C. A. Perry of Suspension 
Bridge, N. Y., made the passage of the Rapids to the Whirl- 
pool in a life-boat of special construction which he had him- 
self made. R. W. Flack, of Syracuse, attempted the same 
feat in July following, but was drowned. A successful pas- 
sage was made July 12, 1900, by Capt. Nissen of Chicago. 
His boat, ''The Fool Killer" had a length of 24 feet with a 
4-foot beam, and was provided with six air compartments. 
His idea of the boat seems to have been a misnomer. Sev- 
eral people have also safely passed through the rapids in 
strong casks built specially for the purpose. 

In July, 1883, Captain Matthew Webb, who had previously 
swum across the English Channel, lost his life while attempting 
to swim the rapids. His body was recovered a few days later 
at Lewiston. A Bostonian named Kendall, in 1886, managed 
by the aid of a life preserver, to get through alive, though 
much exhausted. Notwithstanding his success, swimming 
the rapids has not yet become a popular form of amusement. 

Leaving the Rapids station, the car passes under the Steel 
Arch and Cantilever bridges and climbs the bank to the top. 
At the car sheds we pass the spot where Blondin performed 
his famous feats on a rope stretched across the gorge in 
1859-60. From here we return to the depots and Prospect 
Park. 



67 



(O) AmericaiA Side. Niagara Falls to Svispervsion Bridge arvd 
from Suspensiorv Bridge to Devil's Hole. 

Main street cars carry passengers from Falls street to Sus- 
pension Bridge in about ten minutes. Fare, 5 cents. Trans- 
fers from Buffalo are good on this line. If no stop is intended 
at Suspension Bridge, ask for transfer to the Devil's Hole. If 
stop is made, an additional fare of 5 cents must be paid on the 
Devil's Hole line. Cars for the Whirlpool and Devil's Hole 
leave the terminus near the Cantilever bridge every half hour, 
starting at 15 and 45 minutes past the hour. Running time 
to Devil's Hole, about ten minutes. It is well for the tourist 
to make this excursion leisurely. Leaving the car at the 
Suspension Bridge terminus, turn to the left down the hill under 
Cantilever Bridge, one block to Whirlpool street, along this one 
block to the right, and again turn to the left to the Steel Arch 
Bridge entrance. 

An Elevator near the Cantilever Bridge takes passen- 
gers to the rapids (50 cents). Pass out upon the bridge 
for a view of the Whirlpool Rapids and the gorge above. 
Ticket, ten cents, good both ways. (The tourist may, if 
he wishes, cross the bridge and get view from the Canadian 
side also). 

Returning, pass north down Whirlpool street either one or 
two blocks, turn to the left and reach the brink of the gorge. 
(Second street the cleaner.) This view is essentially the 
same as from the bridge, but gives a distant glimpse of the 
Whirlpool. 

ixeturning to Whirlpool street, continue north to end of 
the walk, turn to the right one block and take electric car 
to De Veaux College (two to three minutes) or walk in ten 
minutes, following the route of the car line. A plank walk 
and roadway lead to the left through the college grounds to 
the Whirlpool. Ticket office and bazaar at the end of the walk. 

Admission, 50 cents. The view here is fine, but not equal to 
that from the Canadian side. 



G8 



Whirlpool. American Side, to Devil's Hole. 

From the Whirlpool a pleasant path leads along the top 
of the gorge to the Devil's Hole, giving a continuous view 
of the river and Foster's Flats (Canadian side) on the way 
(one-half to three-quarters of an hour). The electric car 
from the entrance of the college grounds takes you to the 
same destination in about five minutes. 

The Devil's Hole. 

The frame building at which we alight has a restaurant, at 
which a limited variety of food and liquid refreshments of the 
milder order may be procured. 

From the bazaar at the north entrance a winding stairway 
(fee, 10 cents) descends. 

From the foot of this stairway a path follows the base 
of the picturesque cliff on the right to the Devil's Hole, a 



n^g^ 




^^ ^-^-.|r ^SH^i^m^^^K^i 




Hp5^' ,^-^''^-i»j^* ' 





DEVIL S PULPIT. 



Koon:^, Photo. 



cave extending back into the limestone, through which a 
small spring of cold water issues. Farther on, the path 
emerges upon a platform from which a good view of the gorge 
is seen, and then winds down on the left to the electric rail- 
way below. 

The side gorge, in which the hole occurs, was formed by 
the erosion of Bloody Run, which formerly made a fall here. 
The Hole is a cave in the limestone eroded by a small under- 
ground stream. The rock cut of the N. Y. C. R. R., a few 
rods to the east, has diverted the water, which formerly 
flowed through here, leaving the fall and cave nearly dry. 

From the rock platform "The Devil's Pulpit," in the rear 
of the restaurant, is a fine view of the gorge in both direc- 
tions, and of Foster's Flats, the low-lying area on the Cana- 
dian side at the left hand. The pulpit is supposed to be the 
scene of the British massacre in 1763 (page 88). The stone 
buildings of the Niagara University are seen on the right to 
the north overlooking the river and gorge. 

(P) Geological Excursion from Devil's Hole to Lew^iston. 

From the restaurant follow the walk north across the 
bridge over the railroad tracks to the quarry. A difficult 
path at the northern end winds down to the quarry and the 
railroad tracks. The limestone contains a few nodules of 
gypsum and calcite with some poor fossils difficult to extract. 
An easier path may be found further on opposite the Niag- 
ara University. Turn to the left at the hand-ball grounds 
(recognized by a high board screen), where a path descends 
to the railroad tracks, emerging at the base of the Niagara 
Limestone near a flagman's shelter. In the face of the cliff 
nearly opposite the shelter is a small cave from which a 
stream of water emerges in wet seasons. Passing north the 
Niagara Shale appears below the limestone and is seen higher 
and higher in the wall of the gorge. About twenty rods south 
of the second flagman's shelter, where a small sluice crosses 
the track, the Clinton Limestone a firm compact rock, appears 



70 
at the surface and has been quarried on the lower side of the 
track. The underlying green Clinton Shale is seen a short 
distance further on. The Niagara Shale overlying the Clin- 
ton, here contains beautiful specimens of the crinoid Caryo- 
crinus ornatus for which the gorge is famous. The best 




Original. I. P. Bishop, Photo. 

CRINOID nEhD-Caryocriinis. Natural Size. 

horizon for this fossil is included in the six feet of rock just 
above the Clinton, although good specimens occur anywhere 
in the shale. As the rock disintegrates, specimens are loos- 
ened and fall to the track. Several forms of corals and 
many species of brachiopods are also abundant. 




Original. 



I. P. Bishop, Photo, 



ARTHROPHYCUS HARLANI 



71 

The third flagman's shelter may be known by the small 
evergreen growing on the rock in the rear. Just south 
of this the upper grey sandstone oj the Medina Group is at 
the surface, and opposite the shelter is about three or four 
feet from the ground. Below it are seen the green 
and red mottled shales and sandstones of the Medina 
Group. The base of the upper gray band is very rich 
in the so-called Medina Fucoid, Arthrophycus Harlani, 
which is now believed to be a cast of the tunnel made 
by a burrowing invertebrate.* Other markings be- 
lieved to be remains of plants, also occur. The red sand- 
stone and the shales below contain a few orthoceratites and 
numerous brachiopods. Excellent markings showing varie- 
ties of beach action are also visible on the sandstones. 

One-fourth mile further on a small stream makes a pretty 
fall over the side of the gorge, and has excavated a side 
ravine. A similar excavation, larger than the first, is also 
seen near the last flagman's shelter. The watchman, Mr. J, 
McCormick, has usually a few crinoid heads and other fossils 
for sale. Beyond the last shelter we pass through the tun- 
nel, and turning to the left follow a path which leads along 
the bluff overlooking the Suspension Bridge. The gray sand- 
stone, upon which the bridge is anchored, is the Quartzose 
Sandstone of Hall or the Lower Gray Medina Sandstone, 
which underlies Western New York, and is the reservoir for 
natural gas in Erie County. 

The path continues along the edge of the bluff and descends 
to the electric railway tracks at the northwest angle. The 
red shales of the Medina form the banks of the river to 
Lewiston. 

The foregoing trip is the favorite one with geologists inter- 
ested in fossils or in the stratigraphy of the gorge, because 
in the course of two hours fresh surfaces of all the strata com- 
posing the walls can be inspected with a minimum of labor. 

From the railroad station at Lewiston a road leads east- 
ward up the hill, and forms the principal street of the 

* Arthrophycus and Dsedahis of Burrow Origin — C. J. Sarle, Pror. Roches- 
ter Acad, of Science, Vol. 4, p. 203. 




/. p. Bishop, Photo. 
A BIT OF THE ANCIENT IROQUOIS BEACH, LEWISTON. 



village. It is located upon the ancient Iroquois Beach, locally 
known as the *' Ridge Road," which has been traced from 
here to the Adirondacks, and marks the southern boundary 
of a glacial lake having its outlet through the Mohawk Val- 
ley at Rome, N. Y. The contour of the beach may be seen 
wherever a street intersects it. The gravel pits in the bluff 
below the N. Y. C. R. R. station are deposits formed by the 
same agency. 

Return to the Falls by Electric Cars or N. Y. C. R. R. 



Lewiston, 



Arrival: Trolley lines from Niagara Falls and Youngstown 
and steam cars of the N, Y. C. R. R. set passengers down at 
the steamboat dock. The R., W. & 0. station is nearly a mile 
east of the town, but the mail carrier usually transfers 
passengers. Steamers of the Niagara River Line from 
Toronto touch here six times a day, connecting with electric 
and steam cars for Buffalo; the Turbinia, a new and fast 
steamer of another line and as yet the only turbine steamer 
on fresh water, competes for Toronto business, leaving daily, 
except Sundays, at 12.00 noon and 6.00 p. m. Both lines 
touch at Niagara-on-the-Lake to land and receive passen- 
gers. On Sunday the little river steamer Ongiara runs between 
Lewiston and Niagara-on-the-Lake. A steam ferry (fare, 
round trip, 10 cents), transfers passengers for Toronto boats 
to and from Queenston; transfer can also be made by Belt 
Line cars via the bridge. 

The principal hotels are the Cornell House, $2.00 per day, 
near the steamboat landing, and the Frontier House, $2.00 
per day, in the village about five minutes' walk east of the 
steamboat landing. The latter hotel was built of the local 
Niagara limestone in 1824 and is of considerable historic 
interest. At one time it was the finest hotel west of Albany. 
Webster once held court in it, and it has also sheltered many 
of the most famous men of the United States. Both hotels 
are good. 

Lewiston, population 650 to 700, named after Governor 
Lewis, of New York, is beautifully situated on a plain where 
the waters of Niagara leave the gorge. Lying at the foot 
of the portage between Lake Ontario and Lake Erie, it was 



73 



74 
for a long tirre the most important town on the Niagara 
frontier, and got the most of the traffic arising from travel 
to and from the upper lakes. La Salle's Stockade (page 
87) is supposed to have been located near the present ferry 
landing. An old tramway, probably the first railway in 
America, had its lower terminus near the N. Y. C. R. R. 
tunnel on the southern edge of the village. It extended to 
the top of the bluff near the site of Fort Gray. The oldest 
house is that of Mrs. Wheeler, situated on the bluff on the 
left-hand side of the road leading up from the ferry. It 
was built by Major Benjamin Barton in 1815 on the site of 
an old log house of still earlier date. The novelist Cooper 
is said to have written **The Spy" in a hotel which 
stood on the left hand side of the main street where it 
crosses the N. Y. C. R. R. The site is now occupied by a 
blacksmith shop. The Lewiston Academy, standing at the 
end of the same street, was built in 1826, and was long one 
of the leading educational institutions of Western New 
York. 

(Q) Excvirsions from Lewiston. 

To Toronto by steamer, about three hours; Turbinia 
makes trip in two hours. Fare, $1.25; both ways, $2.00, 
good thirty days. A trip of seven miles on the river and 
thirty-six miles across the lake. Steamers excellent. To 
Youngstown and Fort Niagara by carriage or bicycle, a 
ride of six or seven miles over a good road, commanding a 
view of the river, and passing through the greatest orchard 
region in the State. To Youngstown and Fort Niagara by the 
Lewiston and Youngstown Frontier Railway. Fare twenty 
cents. Round trip, thirty-five cents. Cars start from near 
the N. Y. C. station every half hour during summer, and at 
longer intervals in winter, carrying both passengers and 
freight. Running time to Youngstown, fifteen to twenty 
minutes. The car runs for a distance through the principal 
street of Lewiston, turns to the left and traverses an open 
country rich in orchards of apple, pear and peach. The road 
terminates near the shore of Lake Ontario, where there is a 



summer resort and picnic ground. The principal object of in- 
terest is Old Fort Niagara, and the tourist is advised to see 
that first, returning to Youngstown afterward. The barracks 
and other buildings for the care of the garrison are of modern 
construction and devoid of interest. At present (1907) only 
a detail of soldiers is stationed there as caretakers. The old 
fort, of brick and earth construction, lies in the angle between 
the river and lake. The principal gateway is on the river side. 
Entering the enclosure, the old Powder Magazine, a white- 
washed structure is seen on the right, with the abandoned 
Officers^ Quarters beyond. It is said that Morgan, of anti- 
Masonic notoriety, was confined in the magazine during 
the brief captivity which preceded his final disappearance. 
Still farther on is a Blockhouse. Another is seen at the farther 
corner, near the lake. 

Nearly in front is the Old French Castle , built in 1728, 
with the bakery and kitchen near its western angle. At 
the end of the hall leading westerly from the main entrance 
of the castle is a dungeon in which executions are said to 
have taken place. Entrance to the rifle pits may be gained 
near the blockhouse at the northeast corner. 

Outside the fort, and not far from the southwest corner, 
we pass a military cemetery in which is a monument to the 
soldiers who fell in the War of 1812. Return to Youngs- 
town may be made on foot in ten to fifteen minutes, or quicker 
by trolley. 

Youngstown. 

Youngstown, like Lewiston, is a popular summer resort 
for residents of Buffalo, who find here quiet and restful 
surroundings. It is a village of about 600 inhabitants and 
is chiefly interesting to the tourist for its proximity to Fort 
Niagara. It is connected by steam ferry with Niagara- 
on-the-Lake, where steamer for Lewiston or Toronto may 
be taken. Hotel, The Eldorado, $2.00 to $2.50 per day. 
It accomodates about 100 guests. 



76 
Niagara-on-the-Lake, 

On the Canadian side opposite Youngstown and Fort 
Niagara, has a population of about 2,000, and is known 
principally as a summer resort. The large Queen's Royal 
Hotel ($4.00 per day, $15.00 to $35.00 per week), is open 
only in summer. Long's Hotel is open all the year. Both 
are well spoken of. The remains of Fort George can be seen 
just south of the town, and a fort is still maintained on the 
site of Fort Massassauga at the mouth of the river. St. 
Mark's Church, built in 1802, with an old cemetery adjacent, 
is of interest to the tourist. 

In addition to steamboat communication, ihe town is 
reached by cars of the Michigan Central Railroad. 

From Buffalo to Niagara Falls. 

As the greater number of tourists who vfsft Kiagara 
pass through Buffalo, that city is taken as the starting 
point of the following itineraries. Points and times of 
departure are arranged for those stopping in the principal 
hotel district. 

To Niagara by Electric Car. 

The yellow electric cars of the International Railway 
Co. leave the corner of Main and Court streets. First car 
leaves Buffalo at 5.30 A. M.. followed by cars leaving at 
6.00, 6.30, 7.00 and 7.30 A. M.'; from that time until 7 P. M. 
cars run at intervals of ten minutes; after 7 P. M. and until 
midnight at intervals of thirty minutes. There are also 
two night cars. The service from Niagara Falls to Buffalo 
is on the same schedule. As the time tables are liable to 
frequent change, inquiry should be made at the Com- 
pany's office or of the conductors. Time for the trip, one 
hour twenty-two minutes. Fare for round trip to Niag- 
ara Falls, fifty cents; one way, thirty-five cents. Buy 
tickets of conductor. Round trip to Queenston via Niagara 



77 

Falls Park & River Railway, $1.00. Round Trip, Buffalo 
to Lewiston via Great Gorge Route, $1.25. The Great Belt 
Line Trip, Buffalo to Niagara Falls across upper steel arch 
bridge to Canadian Horseshoe Falls, Queenston, Suspension 
Bridge to Lewiston, Great Gorge railroad to Niagara Falls 
and Buffalo, $1.50. The last tour skirts the whole of the 
Niagara Gorge in view of the principal points of interest, and 
is the finest trip of its length in the world. From Buffalo to 
Niagara Falls the left-hand side of the car affords the best 
view during the route. 

Leaving the corner of Main and Court streets, the car 
passes down Court street and turns into Niagara street, which 
it follows for about 20 minutes. In about twelve minutes 
we pass through the pretty little Prospect Park, beyond 
which, on the right, is the lAth Regiment Armory, built of 
brown stone. Two blocks to the left is the Front, a park 
overlooking Lake Erie and the head of the Niagara River. 
Adjoining it is Fort Porter, garrisoned by United States troops. 
At Ferry street is a steam ferry to Fort Erie, which may 
been seen across the river. 

Farther on at Black Rock we cross Scajaquada Creek, and 
see below the International Bridge of the Grand Trunk Rail- 
road, built in 1873 and costing $1,500,000. 

After leaving the city we reach in about fifteen minutes 
Tonawanda (population 7,904), separated by Tonawanda 
Creek and the Erie Canal from North Tonawanda (popula- 
tion 10,157), the two towns constituting one of the largest 
lumber ports in the world. (Best hotel here, the Sheldon 
House, North side). The road zig-zags through the suburbs 
and a little later crosses the New York Central Railroad on 
a high trestle, from which a fine view of the river may be 
seen. Across the river on Grand Island is Edgewater, a summer 
resort. Ferry to Edgewater in summer from foot of trestle. 
A little higher up opposite Tonawanda was the scene ot Maj. 



78 

Noah's attempt to found a city of refuge for the Jews (page 92) . 
The road now follows the river. Before reaching LaSalle we 
cross an unfinished canal, an abortive attempt to convey water 
for power purposes to "Model City," near Lewiston. Beyond 
the canal, near a frame cottage on the left, with flagpole adja- 
cent, a low monument beside the track marks the spot where 
La Salle is said to have built the Griffon, the first vessel to 
sail the great lakes (page 85). 

We next traverse a tract rich in orchards and approach the 
Power district of Niagara Falls, a new suburb created by the 
recent development of industries dependent upon electrical 
and water power. The first factories south of the Niagara 
Junction Railway under which we pass are those of the Phos- 
phorus Compounds Co., and of the Oldbury Electro Chemical Co., 
the latter manufacturers of chemicals. Beyond the railroad 
crossing on the same side is the factory of the Roberts Chemical 
Co., making potash and acids. On the opposite side of the 
road are the works of the Development and Funding' Co ., farther 
over on the right the works of The Union Carbide Co., the 
largest manufacturers of Calcium Carbide in America. The 
product is used for making acetylene gas. At night the vicinity 
is lit up by plumes of fire from the chimneys. We next pass, 
on the river side, Schlossefs Dock, the scene of the Caroline 
incident (page 93). Between the dock and the electric rail- 
way are the Ramapo Iron Works; beyond, and a little nearer the 
river, is the factory of the Niagara River Manufacturing Co. 
After crossing the little Gill Creek we pass in succession, on the 
left, the works of The Acetyvone Manufacturing Co., The Nor- 
ton Emery Wheel Co., and the two plants of The Castner Electro- 
lytic Alkali Co. The last-named company makes caustic soda 
and bleaching powder by electrolytic methods. Between the 
two Castner plants, and nearer the river, is the factory of The 
Niagara Electro-Chemical Co., makers of metallic sodium and 
sodium peroxide. Next is the large plant of The Aluminum 
Company of America. A second plant, to which a large 
extension is now being added (1907), is located on the 
brink of the gorge below the upper arch bridge. The two 
plants now produce as much aluminum as was made in the 



79 

whole world during the entire year 1885. The company is the 
largest producer of aluminum in existence. The building ad- 
jacent with red tiled roof is that of the Ozone Vanillin Co. 
Beyond, and extending back nearly to the river, are the two 
plants of The Carborundum Co. in which carborundum (silicon 
carbide) is made under the Acheson patents. This substance 
is next to the diamond in hardness, and has a wide use as an 
abrasive. The company issues a pamphlet which may be had 
on application, illustrating their processes and the forms of 
their product. Next in order is the factory of The Interna- 
tional Acheson Graphite Co., which makes graphite and carbons 
for electrolytic purposes. In the rear is the plant of The Com- 
posite Board Co. The old chimney still standing near by once 
belonged to Fort Little Niagara (page 86). Litharge and red 
lead are made by the Electric Lead Reduction Co. next door. 
Beyond and near the track are The Niagara Research Labora- 
tories. A staff of trained electrical experts are constantly en- 
gaged here in investigations requiring the use of electric cur- 
rent, and particularly electrolytic apparatus. An inventor or 
investigator may here have the process, for which he furnishes 
the idea, realized at moderate expense. The Lockport Paper 
Co. is located in the rear of the laboratories. Next we pass 
the stone Power House of the Niagara Falls Power Co. at the 
head of the great tunnel. The Transformer House, also of stone, 
lies on the opposite side of the intake canal. In the rear of the 
transformer house is Power House No. 2, of the same company. 

On the opposite side of the railroad track are the buildings 
of Buffalo and Niagara Falls Electric Light and Power Co. Be- 
yond the power houses is the huge mill of The International 
Paper Co., one of the largest paper manufactories in the United 
States. Across the street, near the railroad tracks, is the brew- 
ery of the Cataract Consumers Co. To the right, as we cross the 
canal of the Hydraulic Power Co., is the plant of the Francis 
Hook and Eye and Fastener Co. In the distance, as we make 
the turn to the bridge, are seen the yellow brick buildings of the 
Natural Food Co. (page 34). From the canal the car passes 
through Erie street past the N. Y. Central R. R. depot, and 
down Falls street to Prospect Park. 



80 



Nearly all the industries described above use electricity 
either as a motive power or as the mechanical or chemical agent 
for making their various products. Together with the facto- 
ries depending upon the Hydraulic canal it forms probably 
the greatest group of electro-chemical industries in the world. 





(J^ielson, Photo. 
POWER AND TRANSFORMER HOUSES-Niagara Falls Power Co. 




ELECTRIC FURNACE — Carborundum Works. 



82 




TRANSFORMERS— Niagara Falls Power Co. 



From Buffalo to Niagara^ Falls by Steam Cars. 

New York Central Railroad trains leave the Exchange 
street Station for Niagara Falls at intervals of about an hour 
from 6, 20 a. m. until 11.45 p. m. week days, and fewer trains 
on Sundays. Nearly all trains stop also at the Terrace 
Station (reached from Main street by West Swan street.) 
Ferry Street dLud Black Rock. (Time tables obtained at stations 
should be consulted, as train program is liable to change). 

From the Exchange and Terrace Stations the train runs 
to the Shore of Lake Erie, which it follows for a short dis- 
tance, giving a brief view of the harbor and breakwater. 
The large yellow building on the pier at the left is the 
quarters of the Buffalo Yacht Club. Before reaching the 
bridge across the canal, the Front Park is seen on the bluff 
to the right, and near it the grounds of Fort Porter 



83 
distinguished by a flag pole. Across the river, where it leaves 
the lake, are the ruins of Fort Erie. Beyond the bridge we 
pass next the brick buildings of the Pumping Station, con- 
taining among others two of the largest pumping engines 
in the world. From Ferry street, the next station, the 
route is near that of the Electric railway, for itinerary of 
which see page 76. 

Six trains for Niagara Falls by the Erie Railroad leave the 
Station on Exchange street between 7.15 a. m. and 8.30 p. 
m. For time of leaving time cards should be consulted. 
The Erie road passes through the eastern part of the City, 
northward as far as Tonawanda, whence it parallels the New 
York Central Railroad to the Falls. From Tonawanda the 
itinerary of the electric road will serve. 

The Lehigh Valley Railroad runs seven trains daily to Niag- 
ara Falls, from 5.00 a. m. to 10.40 p. m. Trains leave the 
station at Scott and Washington streets, run eastward nearly 
to Depew, then northward through Williamsville to Tona- 
wanda, then near the N. Y. Central R. R. 



From Buffalo to Niagara Falls by Water. 

There is no regular boat service now, attempts in that direc- 
tion not having proved profitable. But steamers are some- 
times chartered for the trip, especially when large parties of 
visitors are being entertained. 

After leaving her dock the steamer heads down stream 
through the draw of the International Bridge and passes 
Black Rock Harbor on the right. A little farther on is 
Strawberry Island, below which the river divides, embrac- 
ing Grand Island. Below Strawberry Island 2, ferry connects 
Grand Island with the American shore. 

The boat follows the left hand or Canadian Channel. The 
shore of the island on the right is enlivened with numerous 
summer hotels, club houses and villas, the temporary homes 



84 
of city people during the hot season. The Canadian shore 
is low and less interesting. Near the northern end of Grand 
Island a narrow channel opens to the right, giving a glimpse 
of Buckhorn Island and Burnt Ship Bay (page 87). We 
keep the channel nearest the Canadian shore. The island on 
the ri^ht is Navy Island, the stronghold of the insurgents in , 
the Patriot War (page 93). We can land on the American side 
at Schlosser's Dock and make connection with the electric 
cars for the Falls; a small boat can also land on the Canadian 
side, at Chippawa, in the creek of that name, where connec- 
tion is also made with the electric cars. Although the scenery 
on the upper river lacks the grandeur of the Hudson or Rhine, 
it is sufficiently varied to be interesting all the way. 



History, 



The first knowledge of the Niagara region was given to 
the world by the French missionaries and explorers. In his 
"Des Sauvages" published in 1604 Champlain refers to the 
river and Falls and relates what the Indians had told him of 
them and the region beyond. In 1615 Brule, Champlain's 
interpreter, visited the Neuter Indians near the mouth of the 
river and may have been the first white man to see the Falls. 
LaSalle first came to Niagara in 1669. Gallinee, who ac- 
companied him, tells in his .-journal of the Niagara River and 
of hearing the roar of the Falls. In 1678, LaSalle planned a 
second expedition ; LaMotte, Hennepin and fourteen others 
were sent ahead from Frontenac in a vessel of ten tons, 
while LaSalle followed a few days later. On December 6 
of that year the little brigantine came to anchor in the mouth 
of the Niagara river, and on the point now occupied by Fort 
Niagara La Motte and Hennepin established a trading post 
for traffic with the Indians. Later they sailed up the river, 
and where Lewiston now stands built a cabin fortified by 
palisades for the double purpose of a store house and as a 
means of defense. Here they were joined by LaSalle. 
Taking from his vessel cordage, anchors and ship-builders' 
tools, he had them transported from the new fort overland, 
a distance of twelve miles, to the mouth of Cayuga Creek. 
Here on the site of the village which bears his name he built 
the Griffon, the first sailing vessel to navigate the waters of 
the Great Lakes. The little ship was completed in 1679, 
and in it LaSalle made his famous voyage westward, crossing 
Lakes Erie and Huron, and reaching Green Bay on Lake 
Michigan. From this place LaSalle and Hennepin proceeded 

85 



to the present site of Chicago, and the Griffon, loaded with 
furs, started to return. But on her way back the little 
vessel was overtaken by the September equinoctial gales and 
foundered somewhere between Washington Island and 
Mackinaw on lake Michigan. 

The first written description of the Niagara Falls is con- 
tained in Father Hennepin's ''New Discovery" published in 
1697. In this he says that he "personally visited" the 
Falls in December, 1678, and therefore not long after La- 
Salle's landing at the mouth of the Niagara. He gives a 
brief but vivid description of the cataract, which he thinks 
"above six hundred feet high," and accompanies it with what 
is probably the first sketch of the Falls ever made. 

The portage road followed by LaSalle soon became the 
established route between Lake Ontario and the Upper 
Niagara River. From the fort where Lewiston now stands 
it passed diagonally up the bluff to the top and thence con- 
tinued south nearly parallel with the river to navigable 
water above the Falls. At the upper end of the portage, 
near the present site of the Acheson Graphite Go's Factory, 
Fort de Portage, afterwards called Little Fort Niagara, was 
built in 1750, with storehouses and barracks adjacent. An 
old stone chimney yet standing still marks the site of the 
latter structure. 

In the great struggle for supremacy in America between 
France and England, lasting from 1744 to 1763, the Niagara 
Frontier became the scene of many sanguinary conflicts. 
Fort Niagara guarded the doorway to the French possessions 
on the Great Lakes, the Ohio and the Mississippi, which were 
a constant menace to the English colonies from the rear. 
On this account it was only second in importance to Quebec, 
and was the goal of several expeditions sent out by one or 
the other nation. LaSalle's original post, erected in 1679, 
was burned within a year, but was rebuilt of stone by De- 
nonville in 1687, both as a means of defense and for con- 
trolling the fur trade. It was at first called Fort Denonville> 



87 
after the builder, but the name was afterwards changed to 
Fort Niagara, by which title it has been known ever since. 
In 1759 the British, under Gen. Prideaux, came here 
from Oswego with a force of 2,950 men, 750 of whom were 
Indians. Landing about four miles east of the fort he 
proceeded to invest it, throwing up a triple line of intrench- 
ments for the better protection of his men. During the 
siege which followed Gen. Prideaux was killed, and the 
command devolved upon Sir William Johnson, who captured 
the fort and garrison, after a few days' hard fighting. 
Hearing of the fall of Fort Niagara, Joncaire, who was in 
command at Little Fort Niagara, believing that he could not 
hold it against the English, burned the fort and barracks and 
retreated to Chippewa. While the English were beseiging 
Fort Niagara, reinforcements and supplies were sent by the 
French at Venango, Pa., to their friends in the former place. 
The flotilla carrying them reached Navy Island ; but hearing 
of the fall of Fort Niagara, and fearing that the supplies 
might be captured by the English, the French Commander 
took his ships into a small bay on the north side of Grand 
Island and there burned them. From this circumstance the 
spot received the name of Burnt Ship Bay. 

Note. Local tradition places the rendezvous of the French 
not at Navy, but on Buckhorn Island, at the time a peninsula 
connected with Grand Island by a narrow isthmus. Accord- 
ing to this account the French intended to leave their ships 
in comparative safety in the sheltered waters of the cove, 
cross to the mainland below where Tonawanda now is, and 
attack the British at Little Fort Niagara. The English, 
however, anticipated them, by crossing to Grand Island, a 
little higher upstream, and hemming the French in upon the 
northern end of the island. Seeing that he could not ex- 
tricate his ships, the French commander burned them to 
prevent their, falling into the hands of the enemy. Musket 
bullets, buttons and other articles characteristic of a battle- 
field are picked upon plowed fields at the northern end of 



88 
Grand Island, and are believed to be relics of the fighting 
which accompanied this episode. 

In 1761 Joseph Schlosser built the fort which bore his 
name, about 40 rods east of where Fort Little Niagara 
had stood. 

The Devil's Hole Massacre. 

The success of 1759 gave the British complete control 
of the Niagara Frontier, and practically decided the destiny 
of France in America ; but the Seneca Indians, who had 
been allies of the French, remained sullen, and in 1763 
began a campaign against the English. On September 14th 
of that year a wagon train, under military guard, was passing 
between Fort Schlosser and Fort Niagara. As they were 
crossing a small stream about midway between the two 
places, the savages poured a murderous fire upon them from 
ambush, killing a large number, and then rushed upon them 
with the tomahawk and drove the survivors and the frantic 
teams over the precipice. Of the whole company only three 
persons escaped alive. A drummer boy was caught in a tree 
by his belt which broke his fall ; a wounded wagon-driver 
rolled into a thicket, where he was overtaken by the savages ; 
and a third, John Steadman, spurred his horse through the 
Indians and reached Fort Schlosser in safety. Hearing the 
noise of the battle, a detachment of troops stationed at 
Lewiston marched to the relief of their friends and in- 
cautiously fell into the same trap. Of the whole troop only 
eight escaped. The rest were butchered, scalped and their 
bodies thrown over the cliff into the gorge. From the 
sanguinary conflict upon its banks the little stream received 
the name of Bloody Run. 
The War of 1812. The Battle of Queenston Heights. 

Following the declaration of war between Great Britain 
and the United States in 1812, military operations at once 
began along the frontier of Canada, the nearest accessible 
British territory. The first events were disastrous to the 
Americans. In the Upper Lake region, Fort Mackinaw was 



89 
surprised and captured and Hull surrendered Detroit and 
his army to the British General, Isaac Brock, almost without 
a struggle. Early in the autumn of 1812, Gen. Van 
Renssellear collected an army of about 2,500 raw New York 
militia at Lewiston. On October 12 he was joined by a 
force of 450 regulars from Fort Niagara and by Col. Scott's 
regiment from Black Rock. Leaving a part of his forces on 
the American side Van Renssellear, early in the following 
morning, crossed the river under a terrific fire, and with a 
few hundred men captured Queenston Heights in a short 
but spirited battle, in which nearly every commissioned oflftcer 
of the attacking party was either killed or wounded. British 
reinforcements arriving from Fort George, Gen. Brock 
rallied the detached troops, and dividing his force into two 
divisions, attacked at the same time from in front and the 
right flank. The Americans resisted bravely, but were 
finally either killed, captured or driven over the precipice 
into the gorge. Among the captured was Col. Scott, who 
had crossed the river, under a hot fire, to aid his country- 
men. The American militia who had remained on the other 
side, seeing the battle going adversely, became frightened 
and refused to go to the aid of their comrades. Had they 
done so the result might have been diflferent. In leading 
the attack against the heights, Gen. Brock was killed. At 
the foot of the mountain an inscribed stone, set by the Prince 
of Wales in 1860, marks the spot were Brock fell; on 
the heights above a graceful column, towering heavenward, 
attests the appreciation of a grateful country. 

1813. 

On May 27 the combined army and navy force under Gen. 
Dearborn and Commodore Chauncey had assembled at Fort 
Niagara for an attack upon Fort George, which was almost 
opposite upon the Canadian side. Owing to the illness of 
Gen. Dearborn the command devolved upon Col. Scott, who 
a short time before had been a prisoner in Fort George. 
The English were driven out without difficulty, blowing up 



90 
one of the magazines as they left. With the fort the 
village of Newark, then the oldest and most important vil- 
lage on the frontier, fell into the hands of the Americans. 
In a short time the British posts at Chippewa and Fort 
Erie were abandoned, and the Americans held imdisputed 
possession of the Niagara from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario. 
In December the British again assumed the offensive, and 
compelled the evacuation of Fort George. Gen. McClure, 
who was in command, finding that he could not hold the fort 
against the enemy, blew up the magazine, burned the village 
of Newark and retreated to Fort Niagara. Incensea at the 
destruction of Newark, the British immediately retaliated. 
Ten days later they crossed the river, surprised and captured 
Fort Niagara, and sacked and burned Youngstown, Lewiston 
and the Tuscarora village. Then they marched southward 
and burned Manchester (now Niagara Falls) and Fort 
Schlosser, and devastated the whole frontier. Gen. Riall 
crossed the river above Grand Island, attacked and captured 
Black Rock, and on December 30th, burned the village of 
Buffalo, leaving only four houses standing. 

The Battles of Fort Erie and Chippewa. 

Early in the year 1814 the American forces, under Gen. 
Brown, were assembled at Buffalo, while the British occupied 
the Canadian side of the river. On July 3d two divisions, 
under Scott and Ripley, crossed the river, and after a short 
engagement captured Fort Erie, with 170 men and seven 
officers. On the following day Scott advanced northward, 
driving before him the British under the Marquis of Tweeddale, 
by whom every step of the way was contested. At dark 
the British crossed Chippewa Creek, resting on the northern 
bank, while Scott's forces lay on the south side of Street's 
Creek. During the night the Americans were reinforced 
by troops under Brown, swelling their number to 1,900, 
while the opposing forces numbered about 2, 100. During 
the morning of the 5th only skirmishing was done, with no 
material advantage to either side. About 3 p. m. the 



91 
British advanced in force across the plain between the two 
streams and were met by an impetuous charge from the 
Americans under Scott. The battle, although short, was 
one of the hardest fought of the war. The British were de- 
feated and recrossed the Chippewa to their intrenchments. 
The Battle of Lundy's Lane. 
Two or three days after the battle of Chippewa the 
British retreated to the forts at the head of Lake Ontario, 
where they were heavily reinforced by troops from Kings- 
ton. The Americans, who had followed them as far as 
Queenston returned to Chippewa, hoping that the British 
commander would send a part of his forces in pursuit, and 
thus a battle with the whole at one time might be avoided. 
On the 25th Gen. Brown heard that a large force of the 
enemy had crossed the river at Lewiston to intercept sup- 
plies destined for Fort Niagara. He at once ordered Scott, 
with 1,300 men, to march to Queenston and threaten the 
forts, while he, as soon as he could break camp, would 
follow with the rest of the army. Gen. Brown's informa- 
tion proved to be false; for when Scott reached Lundy's 
Lane, near Niagara Falls, he found the whole British army, 
4,000 strong, with nine pieces of artillery entrenched upon 
high ground. Supposing this to be a detachment of the main 
army, which he had heard to be on the other side of the 
river, Scott boldly attacked and held the British in check 
until Brown arrived. The battle raged from late in the 
afternoon until midnight. By a daring charge the Ameri- 
cans captured the battery and drove the British from the 
field, holding it against repeated efforts on the part of the 
enemy to recapture it. Both Brown and Scott were wounded 
and had to be carried from the field. The former ordered 
Gen. Ripley to take command and remove the captured 
cannon and the wounded to Chippewa. For some reason the 
field was not properly guarded, and before morning the 
British returned, reoccupied their position and claimed a 
victory. 



The Siege of Fort Erie. 

After the battle of Lundy's Lane the American forces 
occupied Fort Erie and strongly fortified it. On August 
3d the British General Drummond, with 1,100 men, arrived 
and laid siege to the fort. After several unsuccessful at- 
tempts, they succeeded, on the 15th, in scaling the walls and 
getting possession of the outer defenses. Before they could 
make use of the advantage which they had gained, a magazine 
exploded beneath them hurling the men into the air and killing 
a large number. In the confusion which followed the Amer- 
icans made a resolute attack, and the British broke and fled. 

A period of inactivity followed. On September 17 the 
besieged made a sortie, captured the works of the British 
and forced them to abandon the siege. Fort Erie and the 
British entrenchments were dismantled, and the Americans 
returned to their own side of the river. This was the last 
important engagement of the war on the Niagara Frontier. 
The Treaty of Ghent, in December following, restored peace 
to the two countries. 

The Morgan Incident. 

In 1824 William Morgan, a resident of Batavia, N. Y., 
announced his intention of publishing the secrets of the 
Masonic Fraternity, of which organization he was a member. 
He was quietly seized, thrust into a carriage and driven away 
in the direction of the Canadian border. He was traced as 
far as Fort Niagara, where he is said to have been confined 
in one of the magazines. Whether he left the fort or not 
is unknown, but he was never heard of afterward. The 
popular belief is that he was taken from his dungeon by night 
and drowned in the waters of Niagara or Lake Ontario. The 
episode created intense excitement at the time and brought 
on an Anti-Masonic agitation which lasted for many years. 

The Je^visK Colonization Scheme. 

In the same year Major Mordecai M. Noah planned to 
build on Grand Island, a *Tity of Ararat" as a place of 
refuge for the Jews of the New World. His plan included 



93 
the colonization of the whole island, and the building up of 
an ideal industrial and commercial community for his own 
people. The spot selected for the beginning of this enter- 
prise was at Whitehaven, opposite the village of Tonawanda, 
where the corner stone, previously laid with imposing 
ceremonies on the altar of a Christian church in Buffalo, was 
imbedded in a monument. But the Patriarch of Jerusalem 
refused to sanction the scheme, and Major Noah's plans came 
to nothing. The corner-stone is now in the collection of the 
Buffalo Historical Society. 

The Burning of the Caroline. 

While the Upper Canadian rebellion, known also as the 
patriot war, was in progress in 1837, the leaders of the in- 
surgents established themselves on Navy Island. The Steamer 
Caroline of Buffalo was chartered by them for a ferry boat 
and for carrying visitors to and from Buffalo. Believing 
that the steamer was to be used for offensive operations 
against Canada, the Canadians despatched a picked band of 
men, about forty in all, in five boats to destroy her. Leav- 
ing the Canadian shore December 29, under cover of night, 
they crossed the river and found the Caroline lying at 
Schlosser's Dock on the American side. The crew and about 
twenty-five others who were sleeping on board for lack of 
hotel facilities in the neighborhood, were driven ashore, 
after a short contest, in which one man was killed. The 
Caroline was then set on fire, towed about 200 yards out 
into the stream and turned adrift. She burned to the 
water's edge and sank before reaching the rapids. 

This breach of international law caused great excitement, 
and for a time it was feared that war between England and 
America would be the result. Diplomacy, however, pre- 
vailed, and the matter was satisfactorily settled. 
Rope Walkers and Bridge Jumpers. 

Blondin came to Niagara in 1859 with his business manager, 
Harry Calcourt. He gave his first performances on a wire 
cable which was stretched across the Gorge from White's 



94 
Pleasure Ground, about where the car-sheds of the Gorge 
Road now stand At a subsequent exhibition, the cable was 
stretched across the Whirlpool Rapids, just north of the 
present Lower Arch Bridge. Among some of his feats were 
walking across the rope, chained hand and foot ; making the 
passage in the evening; crossing with his feet incased in 
butter tubs ; crossing without a balancing pole ; carrying a 
cooking stove to the middle of the rope, w^here he stopped 
and cooked an omelette ; turning handsprings, standing on 
his head, or sitting down sideways on the rope two hundred 
feet above the water, and many other equally daring acts. 
His greatest exploit was performed in 1860, when he carried 
Calcourt across the Whirlpool Rapids on his back, in the 
presence of the Prince of Wales. Four times in the course 
of the trip Blondin stopped to rest, each time setting his 
burden down upon the rope and resuming it to continue his 
journey. 

Since Blondin^s day other rope-walkers have imitated his 
feats with more or less success. In 1873 Bellini crossed on a 
rope stretched from Prospect Park to the opposite side near 
the Ferry Road. Stephen successfully crossed on a wire rope 
above the old Suspension Bridge, in 1878, and also jumped 
from the wire to the water. He was killed by falling over 
the bank of the Gorge in 1887. Samuel Dixon also crossed 
on the same wire. Madame Spellerini and others have made 
the passage safely at various times, but no one achieved the 
reputation attained by Blondin. 

On Oct. 24, 1901, Mrs. Annie Edson Taylor passed over the 
Horseshoe Fall in a barrel and survived — a feat never before 
accomplished by anyone. The barrel in which Mrs. Taylor made 
the trip was strongly built of oak and weighted at the lower end 
with an anvil weighing 100 pounds. An opening at the top large 
enough to admit the body was closed by a valve. The barrel con- 
taining Mrs. Taylor was towed by two men in a rowboat over to 
the Canadian channel and released. It passed over the Horseshoe 
fall about 200 feet from Table Rock, and was recovered in an 
eddy near the Maid of the Mist landing on tlie Canadian side. 
Except for a cut upon the head and a few bruises Mrs. Taylor 
was uninjured. 



Stratigraphy. 

The Niagara River leaves Lake Erie through a break in 
the Corniferous limestone which forms the floor of the lake 
at its eastern end. Beneath the Corniferous are the water- 
lime beds of the upper Salina, crossing the river between 
the water works and the International Bridge. From the 
latter place to the rapids the river flows across the Salina 
shales which crop out on the Canadian side at various points 
between the bridge and Grand Island, at the head of Grand 
Island itself, and at Edgewater. With these exceptions the 
banks of the river are composed of reddish clay deposited 
from the glacial waters of Lake Warren. About a mile 
above the falls the Niagara limestone appears in the bed of 
the river which now descends for about a mile in rapids, and 
plunges over a precipice into the gorge below.* Near the 
top of the rapids the river is divided by Goat Island into two 
divisions, one of which forms the American and the other 
the Canadian or Horseshoe Falls. From the Cataract to 
Lewiston and Queenston the river flows through a gorge, 
the sides of which are formed of solid rock with similar 
strata cropping out at corresponding levels on both walls. 
In width the gorge ranges from 750 to 1700 feet, and its 
greatest depth from top to water's edge is a little over 300 
feet. The greatest measured depth of water, nearly op- 
posite the American Fall, is 189 feet, but it is believed that 
the whirlpool may exceed even that. 

With the exception of the Corniferous limestone at Buf- 
falo, all the rocks lying in the bed of the river or forming 

*The descent from Lake Erie to the rapids at Port Day is ten feet ; from 
Port Day to the edge of the American FaU forty-nine feet ; height of Ameri- 
can Fan 167 feet ; from American FaU to Lake Ontario 100 feet ; total 326 feet- 
The Canadian Fall is 158 feet high, and consequently the descent on the rapids 
above, a little more than on the American side. As the height of the tall is 
measured from the crest to the level of the water below, it may vary from 
four to twenty feet, depending upon low or high water. 

95 



Medina 



Clinton 



Niagara 



Salina 



96 
the sides of the gorge are stratified and of Silurian age. 
They dip gradually towards the south, the lower strata dis- 
appearing at the head of the river under the higher mem- 
bers. The cut on page 97 adapted from Hall shows the 
strata in their order of deposition. Photographs illustrat- 
ing details are also seen on pages 51 and 58. 

1. Red shales and sandstones seen in the bank of 

the river at Lewiston and extending to Lake 
Ontario. 

2. Grey quartzose sandstone (White Medina). 

3. Red shales like No. 1, with thin courses of 
red and mottled sandstone (Red Medina 
Sandstone) near the top. 

4. A thin band of grey quartzose sandstone 
(Upper Grey Medina). 

\ 5. A thin band of greenish shale (Clinton shale). 
i 6. Compact grey limestone (Clinton limestone). 

7. Soft argillo-calcareous shale (Niagara 
shale). 

8. Compact glodiferous limestone. 

8. Upper thin bedded limestone constituting 
with 8 the Niagara limestone. 

9. Onondaga or Salina group, including the 
hydraulic limestone or beds of passage to 
the next rock. 

10. Onondaga and Corniferous limestones, Drift 

and fluviatile deposits. 
aa, b, c, d, f, g, h, dotted line represents 

surface of the river from Lewiston to Lake 

Erie, 
d-f the perpendicular fall over the Niagara 

limestone and shale, 
f-g the rapids. 
c the whirlpool, 
k, i, n, position of falls and rapids after a 

recession of one mile, 
p, 0, m, position of falls and rapids after a 

recession of two miles. 



■'?«., 



sr„ 



/' M 



M 



ik 






/,r 



'C/f 



''o. 



How the Gorge Was Made. 

The river falls over the hard Niagara limestone, beneath 
which is a stratum of soft calcareous shale. In its descent 
the lower part of the sheet acquires a greater velocity than 
the upper, and tends to separate from it, thus producing a 
vacuum, and drawing in air after the manner of a Bunsen 
pump. When the water column strikes the base of the cliff, 
the included air is violently expelled and drives a portion of 
the water as spray outward into the air, and another portion 
inward, like a sand blast, against the cliff behind the fall. 
This Jet partly by impact and partly by solution digs out the 
soft shales, undermining the limestone above, which being 
left without support, falls of its own weight and that of 
the water upon it. Frost and other atmospheric agencies 
cause rock to split off from the edges and fall into the 
gorge, slowly widening it and increasing the slope of the 
sides. Thus the brink of the cataract is moved up stream 
and the work of erosion begins anew. 

Under the American Fall the stream has not sufficient vol- 
ume to remove the fallen blocks of limestone, and they remain 
piled up at the base of the cliff, in a measure protecting it 
from erosion. At the Horseshoe over which, as has been 
said, nearly nine-tenths of the waters of the river plunge, 
the conditions are different. The cataract falls into a pool 
estimated to be from 175 to 200 feet deep. A part of the 
air carried down by the water is expelled at the surface of 
the pool, producing undercutting as previously described. 
A large part is also carried by the momentum of the falling 
water deep down below the surface, where it is compressed 
by the weight of the water above it and, expanding after- 
wards, forms great bubbles. (Page 40). It is believed that 
the blocks of limestone which fall from the cliff into the 
pool are whirled about on the bottom by powerful gyratory 
currents and thus excavate and deepen the gorge by the 
familiar process of *' pot holing." 

By such simple means geologists now believe the river has 



99 

excavated its gorge a distance of six and one-half miles from 
Lewiston to the present site of the Horseshoe. (See History 
of Niagara River, G. K. Gilbert, Sixth Ann. Kept. Comrs. 
N. Y. State Reservation at Niagara 1890.) 

Retrogression of the Falls. 

In 1842 Professor James Hall, State Geologist, made a 
trigonometrical survey of the Falls, marking the stations 
from which observations were taken with permanent monu- 
ments. Later surveys were made by others in 1875, 1886 
and 1890. State Engineer Bogart, who made the last sur- 
vey, estimates the mean retrogression for the 48 years 
intervening to be as follows : * 

American Fall, 7.68 inches per year. 

Horseshoe Fall, 26.16 inches per year. 

Total area of recession for the same time : 

American Fall, 0.755 acre (about | acre). 

Horseshoe Fall 6.32 acres. 

From 1886 to 1890 the average recession was: 

American Fall, 1.65 ft. 

Horseshoe Fall, 5.01 ft. 

G. K. Gilbert, of the U. S. Geological Survey, has recently 
reviewed the evidence and concludes that the recession of 
the American Fall is probably as small as 0.2 foot per annum, 
and that the Horseshoe Fall is receding at the rate of approx- 
imately five feet per annum.** At the apex of the 
Horseshoe erosion is going on much more rapidly than efse- 
where, the average recession between 1886 and 1890 being 
at the rate of about twenty feet per year. Large masses of 
rock become detached and fall into the abyss with a noise 
that can be heard at a distance of a mile or more, lengthen- 
ing the gorge by several times the average annual amount. 
The first recorded fall was in 1832. On Feburary 1, 1852, 
a section of the precipice extending from Goat Island 
to Terrapin Tower, 125 feet long by sixty feet wide, 
and extending to the bottom of the cliff, broke off and 

(♦Report Comrs. N. Y. State Reservation at Niagara, 1891.) 

(**Rateof recession of Niagara Falls: G. K. Gilbert. Washington: Govern- 
ment Printing OflBce, 1907.) 



100 

fell with a terrific crash. A smaller fall occurred on 
the following day. In 1867 and again in 1884 large masses 
were detached with a concussion which was plainly felt in 
the neighborhood. The last great fall was in 1889, when 
an area of at least an acre disappeared from the heart of the 
Horseshoe. 

Thickness of Strata. 

In the vicinity of the Falls the Niagara limestone is about 
164 feet thick, only about eighty feet of which are in sight 
at the cataract. The underlying shales are from seventy 
to eighty feet thick. The Clinton limestone has an average 
thickness of twenty feet, with a stratum of green shale 
three to four feet thick beneath. At the Horseshoe Fall the 
Niagara limestone appears to exceed its usual thickness, and 
this may be due to a local lenticular mass in the formation 
or to the beginning of a more general thickening of this 
member. Numerous borings for gas in Erie County, N. Y., 
south of Buffalo, show that the strata increase in thickness 
in that direction. The average thickness of the several di- 
visions in a large number of wells was : * 

Niagara limestone, .... 247 ft. 



Niagara shale, . . 
Clinton limestone. 
Red Medina sandstone, 
Quartzose sandstone, 



72 ft. 
27 ft. 
94 ft. 
15 ft. 



Evidence that the River Has Once Flowed at a Higher 

Level. 

Both banks of the river are terraced for some distance 
above the Falls and along the sides of the gorge below. 
Hall makes four of these within the limits of Prospect Park. 
At least three can be readily distinguished on the Canadian 
side opposite the Upper Steel Arch Bridge, and they are also 
seen in several places south of the Whirlpool. These are be- 
lieved to represent stages in the life of the river when it 

(♦Bishop Geology of Erie Co. Rept. State Geologist, 1895. Page 390). 



101 
flowed at higher levels. The shells of fresh water mollusks, 
some species of which are now extinct, but the greater part 
of which are still living in the Niagara River, are found in 
great abundance in the gravel of these terraces from the 
highest down. They show that the several stages of the 
river indicated by the terraces are all recent, and that the 
river itself is comparatively young. Localities where these 
may be found are indicated on the accompanying maps. 
Geological History, 
At a comparatively recent epoch in geological times a 
great glacier or ice sheet formed in the region north of the 
St. Lawrence River, and moved southward across New Eng- 
land, the Middle States, and as far west as the Mississippi 
River. Before that time the valleys where the Great Lakes 
now are were drained by a complex river system, whose outlet 
was probably through the St. Lawrence valley. One branch 
of this river received the waters of the present Erie Basin 
and joined the main stream near the present western end of 
Lake Ontario, following approximately the route of the 
present Welland Canal. The ice-sheet, which is believed to 
have been from 1000 to 5000 feet thick, pushed its way 
southward, abrading the surface and filling up depressions 
with the debris thus formed, until it reached a region so 
warm that the daily melting equalled the advance of the ice. 
The earth and stones collected by the glacier in its progress 
were thus loosened and deposited along the edge of the ice 
as terminal moraines. South of Buffalo this limit was near 
Salamanca and Olean, but eastward it extended farther south, 
reaching the sea at the mouth of the Hudson River, and 
westward passing below the parallel of Cincinnati. After- 
wards the climate became much warmer, probably owing to 
a lowering of the continent, and the glacier retreated, halt- 
ing at times or even advancing for short distances, but on 
the whole slowly forsaking the ground which it had occu- 
pied. When the ice sheet had retrogressed until its edge 
was north of the rim of the lake basins the water from the 



103 
melting ice and snow and from rain gathered between the 
ice front and the divide, forming lakes. Each lake stood at 
the level of the lowest point on its rim, which became its out- 
let. At first the lakes were small, but as they expanded 
their boundaries new and lower outlets became uncovered, 
and the water dropped to lower and lower levels. If 
the lake stood at the same height for a considerable time, 
the action of the waves upon the shore made beaches like 
those found around our lakes today. One of these lakes, 
Lake Warren, extended over a large part of the Erie- 
Ontario Basin, making a well marked beach, which may be 
seen at Hamburg, Alden and Crittenden, near Buffalo. Dur- 
ing its earlier stages this lake drained into the Mississippi 
Valley at Fort Wayne, Ind., and later across lower Michigan, 
emptying at the present site of Chicago. In the deep valleys 
of the present great lakes the ice was thicker than elsewhere 
and staid longer. One ice lobe retreated in a northeasterly 
direction through the Erie-Ontario basin, while another took 
a more northerly course through the Lake Huron Valley. 
Still another arm of the glacier filled the Mohawk-Hudson 
Valley. At last the ice retreated from the Mohawk-Hudson 
Valley, making a lower outlet and allowing the waters to 
escape eastward to the sea through that channel. The sur- 
face of the water lowered to the base of the escarpment at 
Lewiston, a distance of more than 500 feet, laying bare 
much land that had been covered with water before, and 
forming a smaller lake in the Ontario basin-, which has been 
named Lake Iroquois. The outlet of this was at Rome, N. 
Y. , and through this opening its waters were discharged for 
a long time. The Iroquois beach, upon which the Ridge Road 
is built, has been traced from Lewiston eastward to the Ad- 
irondacks on the American side, and from Queenston to Belle- 
ville, Ont., on the Canadian side. Later when the ice had 
retreated still farther to the northeast, but when the lower 
St. Lawrence was blocked with ice, an opening was made be- 
tween the ice and the base of the Adirondacks, allowing the 



103 

water to escape around their eastward mountain slope. 
Later still the ice left the St. Lawrence Valley, and the 
waters of Lake Iroquois drained through the present channel 
of the St. Lawrence, which was then at a lower level than 
now, leaving Lake Ontario a smaller lake than at present. 

While the Erie-Ontario basins were being freed from ice 
another lobe of the glacier was also retreating through the 
valleys now occupied by Lake Huron and Georgian Bay. 
When the waters of Lake Warren fell below the escarpment 
at Lewiston, Lake Erie was formed, smaller than now, and 
independent of the lakes on the north which still poured their 
waters through the opening at Chicago. Lake Huron was 
at this time about half freed from ice. The continued ret- 
rogression of the glacier later uncovered other outlets at 
lower levels, by which the water escaped to the Ontario-St. 
Lawrence basin. The most important of these was by way 
of Lake Nipissing and the Ottawa River, through which 
route the waters of the upper lakes reached the sea for a 
long time. Afterwards all the country to the northeast of 
the lake region slowly rose, tilting the lake basins southwest- 
ward and causing the waters of the Upper Great Lakes to 
fall away from their northern outlet and spill over their 
lowest point, which happened to be on the southern rim at 
Port Huron. The waters of the Upper Lakes then added 
their volume to those of Lake Erie, and the drainage of the 
Great Lakes has remained practically what it is now ever 
since. 

During the advance and retreat of the ice sheet the old 
river valleys were filled in places by glacial drift and mo- 
raines obstructing drainage and retaining the waters as 
lakes. 

When the waters of Lake Warren first lowered below the 
escarpment at Lewiston, Niagara River had its birth. For 
a time the waters escaping from the shallow Lake Erie to 
Lake Iroquois flowed in a thin sheet across a nearly level 
plain, falling over the rim of the lower basin at four points 



104 
which were lower than the rest. These were located at 
Clarendon, Shelby, Gasport, Lockport and Lewiston. *'Most 
of these were of brief duration, but the one at Lockport con- 
tinued for a considerable period, competing with Niagara 
for establishment, as the permanent outlet of Lake Erie. 
At length, for some cause, not clearly understood, the Lew- 
iston outlet became the lowest and diverted the waters from 
the others. A cataract became established at the edge of 
the escarpment and gradually cut its way back to its present 
position." * 

The site of the Lockport Fall may be seen by tourists 
entering that city from the west via the New York Central 
Railroad, as a ravine on the left-hand side of the track just 
before entering the town. 

St. David's Channel. 

Extending northwestward from the whirlpool is an old 
gorge which opens out with a wide mouth at the escarpment, 
near St. Davids. At the whirlpool it is occupied in part 
by the ravine of Bowman's Creek, but for the rest of the 
way it is almost entirely filled with drift. Geologists be- 
lieve this to have been the bed of a stream of preglacial or 
interglacial age, antedating, perhaps by many thousand 
years, the Niagara which has carved out the present gorge 
above the whirlpool. The width and depth indicate that it 
was made by a stream very nearly as large as the Niagara 
of today, and the length shows that it could not have been 
long lived in a geological sense. For these reasons F. B. 
Taylor, an authority on glacial geology, believes it to have 
been formed during a temporary retreat of the ice sheet 
which afterwards advanced and covered this region again. 
Additional evidence of interglacial action is also found in 
the fact that the bed of the Niagara River, where it leaves 
Lake Erie, was smoothed by glacial action after having been 
cut out by the usual processes of river erosion. As the 
preglacial outlet of Lake Erie was by way of the present 

*(01d Tracks of Erian Drainage— C. K. Gilbert, BuH. Geol. Soc. of America. 
Vol. 8, page 286). 



105 
Welland Canal, the inference is very strong that the waters 
of the lakes discharged for a time by this route after the 
Welland route was closed, and that the outlet was afterwards 
filled by a moving glacial mass. 

Age of the Niagara Gorge. 

If the volume of water in the river had always been con- 
stant, estimating the age of the gorge would be easy and 
approximately accurate. The present recession of the Horse- 
shoe Fall is at the rate of four to six feet per year. If we 
divide the total length of the gorge in feet by the average 
of these figures, the result is a close approximation to the 
theoretical age under these conditions. But G. K. Gilbert, 
F. B. Taylor and others have shown that at different 
periods in the history of the river a part of the waters 
of the upper lakes have reached the ocean by other 
channels. Therefore the volume of the river has fluc- 
tuated, and the rate of recession has been sometimes much 
less than at present. Taylor thinks the cutting of the por- 
tion of the gorge between the Horseshoe Fall and the Can- 
tilever Bridge required from 5,000 to 10,000 years, and of 
the whirlpool rapids several times that amount. On this 
basis the time required to cut the whole gorge could hardly 
be less than 70,000 years, and might be twice that number, 
or even more. 

Dr. J. W. Spencer, working with different data, computes 
the river's age as 32,000 years, and Mr. Warren Upham 
thinks 7,000 years enough. While those most competent to 
judge of the matter believe that no estimate yet made has 
much value, the present trend of opinion is toward the longer 
rather than the shorter time. 

The Future of the Falls. 

Since the Niagara limestone forming the crest of the falls 
dips to the south, the exposed edge will necessarily wear 
away and become lower as the fall travels up stream. The 
result would necessarily be, if no other cause intervened to 

5 



106 
prevent, that the limestone would ultimately drop to the 
level of the water in the lower gorge and the falls would dis- 
appear as such. In their place would be a series of rapids 
extending from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario. But other agen- 
cies now at work tend to modify existing conditions. The 
region northeast of the Great Lakes is slowly rising and tilt- 
ing the lake basins in the opposite direction. G. K. Gilbert 
estimates the change of elevation now going on to be 5.04 
inches in 100 years for every 100 miles. If this tilting con- 
tinues the result must be that the waters of the lakes will 
rise on their southwestern edges and finally spill out at the 
lowest point. The place where this is likely to occur is at 
Chicago, where an artificial channel already connects Lake 
Michigan with the Illinois River.* 

The effect of the tilting will be to increase the volume of 
water now leaving by that outlet and to decrease the outflow 
by way of the Niagara. In 2500 years Mr. Gilbert thinks 
the discharge of Niagara will become intermittent, and in 
3500 years cease altogether. As the volume of water de- 
creases erosion of the falls will become less rapid, and the 
rate of retrogression will be diminished. Under the condi- 
tions which we have assumed the waters of the river will 
cease to flow before the Canadian Fall has receded two miles 
from its present position. Before this time the lower 
drainage on that side will have diverted the water from the 
American Fall, leaving it dry. 

Another factor tending to affect the duration of the falls 
is the diversion of water for power purposes. At present 
the amount in use or contracted for amounts to less than 
eighteen per cent of the estimated volume of the river. But as 
the demand for power increases, as it must, the supply of 
water will be drawn upon until the amount passing over the 
falls will be greatly lessened from this cause alone. For 
this reason also the retrogression of the falls will be 
retarded. 

*Earth movements in the Lake region. Washington, 1898. 



107 

The Utilization of Niagara Falls Power for 
the Generation of Electricity. 

The water flowing over the Niagara rapids and falls is 
capable of developing between 3,000,000 and 4,000,000 
horse power. For more than a hundred years the idea of 
utihzing a part of this enormous energy has occupied the 
minds of inventors, and various schemes, more or less im- 
practicable, have from time to time been projected. To 
Mr. Thomas Evershed, an engineer well known from his 
wide experience in the canal service of the State, belongs 
the credit of the plan which, with minor changes, has finally 
become a reahty. 

At present five plants for the development of power are 
either completed or in process of construction: 
On the American side: 

The Niagara Falls Power Co., 

The Niagara Falls HydrauHc Power and Manufac- 
turing Co., 
On the Canadian side: 

The Canadian Niagara Power Co. 
The Ontario Power Co., of Niagara Falls. 
The Electrical Development Co., of Ontario, Limited. 
When completed the five plants will have the capacity 
to furnish the enormous total of 874,000 horsepower. 

Plan for Developing Power, the Niagara^ Falls 
Power Co. 

As the result of a conference with Mr. Evershed, several 
citizens of Niagara Falls obtained a charter from the Legis- 
lature in 1886, giving them the right to utilize a part of 
the water of the river for manufacturing purposes. But the 
installation of a power plant on so gigantic a scale required 
caution. Not only were engineering difficulties to be 
met and overcome, but the best means of transmitting the 
power obtained had to be carefully considered. In June, 
1890, an International Niagara Commission was established 
in London with power to offer $22,000 in prizes for the best 
plans for the purpose required. For turbines the designs 



1U8 

of Faesch and Piccard of Geneva were selected, and three 
experimental wheels were built from their plans by the I. P. 
Morris Co. of Philadelphia. By the advice of the electrical 
engineer of the company, George Forbes of London, two- 
phase alternating current dynamos with revolving fields were 
adopted, and three trial dynamos were made and installed 
by the Westinghouse Co. of Pittsburg. Ground was broken 
for the tunnel October 4, 1890, and the work pushed ener- 
getically to its completion, which required about two years. 

About a mile above the falls a surface canal, 250 feet wide, 
twelve feet deep, and 1,200 feet long, extends inwardly. 
Parallel with this, and under the power house, is the wheel 
pit, 424.7 feet long, 18.5 feet wide, and of average depth 
of 177.5 feet. 

From the base of the wheel pit a tunnel 7,481 feet long, eigh- 
teen feet ten inches wide, and twenty-one feet high runs under 
the town, opening nearly beneath the Upper Steel Arch Bridge. 
It is of horseshoe form, lined with brick throughout, and at 
the lower end plated on the bottom and sides for some dis- 
tance with steel. For the first 5000 feet from the portal the 
grade is .7 per cent; thence to the wheel pit .4 per cent. 

In the sides of the canal are openings guarded by gates. 
From these, steel penstocks seven and one-half feet in diam- 
eter descend to the water wheels below. These are inverted 
twin turbines, each of 5000 horse power, working under a head 
of 136 feet. The water is admitted between the turbines and 
is discharged outwardly at the rate of 430 cubic feet per 
second at full load into the tunnel which serves as a tail race. 
From the turbines a vertical shaft extends to the generator, 
142 feet above, and is connected directly to the hollow revolv- 
ing field which also serves the purpose of a flywheel for the 
turbine. The weight of the revolving parts of the generator, 
shaft and wheel is 150,000 pounds. When in operation this 
great mass is supported by the upward thrust of the column 
of wateT* in the penstock against the disc of the upper turbine 
wheel, and so revolves without friction on the bearings. Each 



109 

dynamo runs at a speed of 250 revolutions per minute, and 
generates 5000 electrical horse power. The electricity 
comes from the generator as a two-phase alternating cur- 
rent of 800 Amperes in each phase, at 2200 volts pressure. 
For transmission to Buffalo itis ''stepped up" by static trans- 
formers from a 2200 volt two-phase to a 22000 volt three- 
phase current. Heavy copper and aluminum wires supported 
on poles convey the current to Buffalo, where it is ''stepped 
down" in a static transformer to an alternating current 
ranging from 480 to 2000 volts, according to the needs of 
the consumer. For trolley purposes it is transformed to a 
480 volt current. This is used to run a rotary transformer 
yielding a direct current of about 575 volts, suitable for. 
propelling street cars. 

From the step up transformer plants, overhead circuits 
also distribute the electrical power at 22,000 volts to the 
Tonawandas, Lockport, Olcott and Fort Erie, where it is 
transformed to voltages convenient for the users. To the 
Niagara Falls industries, the power is either distributed 
at the generator voltage, 2200 volts, two phase, or trans- 
formed to 11,000 volts, three phase. The transformer house 
is located near the entrance to power house No. 1 on the 
opposite side of the intake canal. 

The original plant of the NIAGARA FALLS POWER CO., 
of Niagara Falls, N. Y., described above, was installed with 
ten turbines, each with a capacity of 5,000 electrical horse 
power. Afterward a second power house, known as power 
house No. 2, was erected on the opposite side of the canal, 
operating from the same intake and discharging its water 
into the same tunnel. This is essentially a duplicate of 
No. 1, with certain improvements suggested by experience 
gained in the installation of the first plant. 

The new power house contains eleven generators of 5,500 
horse power each, driven by Francis single turbines, working 
under a head of 141 feet. The current furnished is of the 
same type and voltage as that generated in power house 



no 

No. 1. Five of the generators have internally revolving 
fields, the others are of the same type as those in power- 
house No. 1. 

The power house of the CANADIAN NIAGARA FALLS 
POWER CO. is located on the Canadian side of the river 
about I mile above the Horseshoe Fall. The water is taken 
efrom the rapids through an intake 271 feet long and delivered 
to the turbines essentially as in the American plants. The 
tunnel is 2,165 feet long, 25 feet high, and 18.8 feet in greatest 
width. It discharges into the lower gorge underneath the 
Canadian bank just below the Horseshoe. The general 
plan of installment of turbines and generators is like that 
of the American plants. The turbines are Francis double 
inward discharge wheels with draft tubes, working under 
a head of 141 feet. The penstocks have a diameter of 10.2 
feet. The generators have internally revolving fields, which 
revolve at the rate of 250 times a minute. At present, 1907, 
five generators are in use, each delivering 10,000 electrical 
horse power at 12,000 volts. The generator current in this 
case is three-phase. When the work now under construction 
is completed the plant will have an additional capacity of 
60,000 horsepower, or a total of 110,000 electrical horsepower 
altogether. 

The three plants of the two Niagara Power Companies 
are interconnected by heavy copper cables, so that power 
generated by any one plant can be sent out direct to the 
tenants supplied by that plant or can be transmitted through 
the interconnecting cables to either of the other two plants 
for similar distribution. Thus the whole system is a single 
unil of great flexibility, with ample reserve capacity, assuring 
continuous and uninterrupted service to the power tenants 
of both companies. 

In addition to the transmission line on the American 
side, a second was installed in 1906 on the Canadian side. 
It is a single pole line carrying two triphase 24,000-volt 
circuits. At Fort Erie they are carried across the river 
on lofty steel towers to the transformer house, located on 



Ill 

the top of the bank near the Buffalo City pumping station, 
The lines from both sides of the river are here so intercon- 
nected that service to Buffalo tenants cannot be long in- 
terrupted by a break in either circuit. 

The Niagara Falls Hydraulic Power and 
Manufacturing Co. 

The other plant, on the American side of the river, for 
utilizing Niagara power, had its beginning long before the 
tunnel project was perfected. It has for its main feature 
a surface canal 4,400 feet long, extending from Port Day 
to the edge of the cliff near the Upper Arch Bridge, 
where it expands into a forebay. From the forebay the 
water is delivered by penstocks to the wheels which run 
the machinery, or dynamos. The original canal was 
built in 1853-8 by Woodhull & Bryant, and was thirty 
feet wide and six feet deep at first. No use was made of it 
until 1870, when Charles B. Gaskill built a grist mill on the 
edge of the bank near the forebay. In 1877 the canal and 
accessories were purchased by Messrs. Jacob Schoellkopf 
and A. Chesbrough, of Buffalo, who organized the Niagara 
Falls Hydraulic Power & Manufacturing Co. The Company 
leased water privileges to various tenants and an important 
manufacturing colony grew up on the edge of the gorge. 
At first the motive power consisted of turbine wheels with 
vertical shafts set in pits or notches on the edge of the bank, 
and with a head of less than 100 feet. Later a shaft eighty 
feet deep was sunk connecting with a tunnel 200 feet long, 
to be used as a tail race. About 1500 horse power was 
generated by turbines placed in this pit and distributed by 
wire rope, or in other ways, to customers within a radius 
of 300 feet. 

In 1886 the Company seciired title to a part of the sloping 
bank between their plant and the river so as to further use 
their water power. In 1892 The Cliff Paper Co. leased the 
water discharged from the Hydraulic Company's tunnel and 
built a pulp mill near the edge of the river at the foot of 



113 

bhe bank. In the same year the Niagara Falls Hydraulic 
Power & Manufacturing Co. began the enlargement of their 
canal by widening and deepening it. The present depth of 
fourteen feet , and width of 100 feet, give it a working 
capacity of approximately 140,000 horse power. To further 
utilize this, in 1905 to 1906 the Company built a power house 
at the foot of the bank, near the pulp mill of the Cliff Paper 
Co. On the top of the bank is a forebay 30 by 180 feet, taking 
water from the open canal. From this three penstocks, 
one of eight feet and the others of eleven feet diameter, 
built of flange steel, extend to the power house, whence a 
supply pipe thirteen feet in diameter extending horizontally 
delivers the water to the wheels. These penstocks are 360 
feet long, and deliver water under a head of 210 feet. The 
turbines, sixteen in number, are mounted on horizontal 
axes, each wheel rigidly connected to two direct-current 
dynamos, capable of developing 560 to 1,000 kilowatts each. 
The wheels have a capacity of 1,600 to 3,500 horse power each, 
and were built by James Leffel & Co., of Springfield, 0., 
by the I. P. Morris Co., of Philadelphia, and by the J. M. Voith 
Co., of Germany. One generator delivers an alternating 
current of 11,000 and another of 2,200 volts potential; but 
the others furnish direct current at low pressures varying 
from 125 to 550 volts. As the power is used within a short 
distance of the generators, the low voltage is preferred. 

In 1903 plans for the extension of the forebay and the 
erection of an additional station were started under the 
direction of Chief Engineer John L. Harper, and are now 
nearing completion. The new forebay is 450 feet long, 30 
feet deep and 24 feet wide at the bottom. The new power house 
will be located at the foot of the bank, a few rods north of 
the other one. The general plan of developing power is 
the same as that already in use. Penstocks will deliver 
water from the forebay to turbines of the horizontal type, 
connected direct to the generators. The complete design 
of this station calls for 13 units, each of 10,000 horse power, 
with a running capacity, allowing for reserve, of 100,000 
horse power. 



114 

The Company has a contract with the Aluminum Co. of 
America, to furnish 36,000 horse power in the form of direct 
current at 625 volts. It is expected that this power will 
be ready for delivery before the close of 1907. For some 
of the other customers a three-phase current of 12,000 volts 
will be furnished. 

The Ontario Power Co. of Niagara Falls. 

The water for this plant is taken from the river at the Duf- 
ferin Islands, near the head of the Canadian rapids. An orna- 
mental screen house excludes ice and other floating objects, and 
admits the water to a large jorebay. A gate house adjacent, 
built of Roman stone, contains the machinery for raising and 
lowering the gates which control the admission of water to the 
pipes. From the gate house a steel tube 18 feet in diameter, 
and imbedded in concrete and buried beneath the surface of the 
ground, extends to a point just below the Horseshoe Fall. 

At the northern terminus a Spillway is provided to relieve 
shock due to sudden stoppage of current for any reason. From 
the tube, water under a head of 175 feet is admitted to the tur- 
bines in the Power House at the base of the cliff through pen- 
stocks nine feet in diameter and is finally discharged into the 
river. The turbines are of the horizontal type, each connected 
direct with Westinghouse generators capable of delivering 
12,500 electrical horse power each. The generators revolve at 
the rate of 187.5 revolutions per minute, delivering a three- 
phase current at a pressure of 12,000 volts. At present (1907) 
four generators are installed and two more are ready for in- 
stallation. When completed, the plant will contain 22 such 
generator.-]. 

From the generators, the current passes through cables to 
the distributing station at the top of the bank above the Falls. 
To all points on the Canadian side within 25 miles the current 
is distributed at the generator pressure of 12,000 volts. About 
20,000 horse power is furnished to local consumers at that poten- 
tial. The greater part of the power furnished is transformed 
at the distributing station to a pressure of 60,000 volts for 



115 

long distance transmission. For this transformation 12 trans- 
formers each with a capacity of 3,000 k. w. are used. A con- 
siderable part of the electricity now produced is sold in bulk 
to the Niagara, Lockport and Ontario Power Co., which dis- 
tributes power on the American side as far east as Syracuse, 
a distance of 160 miles. This is said to be the longest single 
transmission line in the world. 

Some of the larger consumers of this power on the American 
side are the following: 

The Syracuse Street Railway Co., about 5,000 h. p. 

The Lackawanna Steel Co., Buffalo, about 5,000 

The City ot Auburn Lighting Co., about 1,000 

The City of Lockport, about 1,000 " 

The Iroquois Portland Cement Co., of Caledonia, 

about 1,000 -^ 

At Batavia, about . 1,500 

The government of Ontario has also contracted with The 
Ontario Power Co. for a maximum amount of 100,000 horse 
power, which will be distributed at cost to the larger munici- 
pahties throughout the province. 

The transmission line to the American side crosses the gorge 
near the Devil's Hole Rapids. The metallic cables carrying 
the current are supported on steel towers and protected 
from leakage by special insulators. The circuits are of the 
three-phase type. 

For means of reaching the plant see itinerary (D) page 39. 

The Electrical Development Company of Ontario, 
Limited. 

The works of this company are located on the Canadian side 
of the rapids, at Tempest Point, a short distance above the 
plant of the Canadian Power Co. The general plan of con- 
struction is, in its main features, similar to that of the American 
and Canadian power companies, but differs in a few particulars. 
The water is diverted from the river by a wing dam, which 
extends outward and upward into the rapids and forces the 
water into a forehay. 



116 

The wheel pit, which is nearly parallel with the river, is 416 
feet long and 22 feet wide, and lined with a brick wall two feet 
thick. Its total depth is 144 feet. On either side of the wheel 
pit at its base is a tunnel which runs parallel to the length of 
the wheel pit. At a point about 150 feet north of the wheel pit 
the two tunnels open into the main tunnel, 1,935 feet long and 
26 feet high, which extends under the river and discharges 
water directly beneath the apex of the Horseshoe Fall. The 
tunnels are lined with concrete and faced with brick through- 
out except at the terminal of the main tunnel, where concrete 
rings in six-foot sections are used. These are expected to 
break off as the falls recede. From the forebay water is ad- 
mitted to the turbines through riveted steel penstocks 10 feet 
6 inches in diameter. Each water wheel consists of two 
Francis internal discharge turbines 5 feet 4 inches in diameter. 
The units are so arranged that the first, third, fifth, etc., dis- 
charge into the right-hand tunnel, and the second, fourth, etc., 
into the left-hand tunnel alternately. From the turbines a 
vertical hollow shaft of riveted steel extends upward and con- 
nects with the movable field of the generator. This shaft is 
30 inches in diameter except at the bearings, where it is solid 
and 14.5 inches in diameter. The generators are of the revolv- 
ing field type, and run at a speed of 250 revolutions per minute. 
They dehver a three-phase current at a potential of 12,000 
volts, and are each capable of furnishing 12,500 electrical horse 
power. From the generators the current is fed through cables 
to the transformer house on the bluff above, near the water 
tower, where it is transformed to voltages suitable for trans- 
mission to users. The transformers are of the oil-immersed, 
water-cooled type, and raise the voltage to potentials run- 
ning from 40,000 to 60,000 volts. 

This plant is intended to develop ultimately 125,000 horse 
power. At present (1907) only three of the eleven genera- 
tors to be installed are in operation. The power generated, 
about 10,000 horse power, is sent to Toronto consumers. 

For description of the building see trip (E) page 44. 



Fishing. 



The principal fish caught with the hook in the Niagara 
River are yellow perch, yellow pike (the pike perch), blue 
pike, white, rock, and black bass, and muskallonge. The 
best perch fishing begins about the middle of May and lasts 
till July. The fall run begins early in August and may con- 
tinue till the middle of October, although the earlier part of 
the period is considered the best. Blue pike bite vora- 
ciously for a few days early in May, and are likely to be caught 
afterwards in fishing for perch. Yellow pike are readily 
caught either with bait or by ''chugging," from August 1 to 
September 15, although they may be taken in small numbers 
after May 1, especially with minnows. Black bass may 
be taken between June 16 and Dec. 31. White bass may be 
taken in May on the American side of the river, but are 
protected on the Canadian side until later. Muskallonge 
are sparingly caught in Buffalo harbor and around Grand 
Island about June 1, and in the latter region in August and 
September. Sturgeon are speared in the river below the 
Whirlpool in May. Eels are caught in great numbers below 
the Falls, where they sometimes crawl out among the wet 
stones in their endeavor to pass up the river. 

The best places for fishing in the lower river are at Lewis- 
ton or Queenston and at Youngstown. At Lewiston boats 
and bait can be obtained of the Browns, who have boat- 
houses above and below the steamboat landing. Boat and 
bait $1.00 per day, guide to row boat, $1.50 to $2.00 extra. 
Bargain with guide advised. At Queenston, opposite, 
boats and guide may be obtained at the steamboat wharf. 
At Youngstown bait and boats may be had by inquiry at the 
hotels mentioned (page 75). 

Above the Falls perch and rock bass fishing may be had 

117 



118 

at Schlosser's dock and at LaSalle. Boats may be had at 
the latter place near the trolley and railroad stations. The 
fish do not run as large here as at Lewiston, but the fisher- 
man is reasonably sure of a fair catch in the proper season. 
At Buffalo there is much fishing at the Ferry Street dock, 
but the fish are small and few. Yellow pike and blue pike 
are caught during August in the early evening on the break- 
water above Ferry Street. Obtain bait and tackle at 
Ferry dock or at ''Dutch Bill's," foot of Porter Avenue. 
Chugging rigs and guides for deep river fishing also at the 
latter place, or at the boat-house at the pier. On the Cana- 
dian side at Fort Erie boats and tackle may be hired at the 
boat-house near the stone church in the lower part of the 

town. 

Duck Shooting. 

Duck hunting is good along the river in many places. 
Favorite spots for this sport are the upper reach of the 
Niagara where it leaves Lake Erie, in the vicinity of Grand 
Island, and between Grand Island and the head of the rapids. 
In the Autumn of late ducks were quite numerous 
between the Upper Arch Bridge and the Falls. During the 
winter they frequent the open water above the rapids, where 
they are shot in large numbers. 



References, 



Report Commissioners for the Queen Victoria,^' Niagara 
Falls, Park, 1904-1906. 

The Queen Victoria, Niagara Falls Park. E. A. Meredith, 
Canadian Magazine, July, 1897. 

Reports Comrs. State Reservation at Niagara, 1885-1906. 

Goat Island. Peter A. Porter, 1900. 

A Brief History of Old Fort Niagara. Peter A. Porter, 
Niagara Falls, 1896. 

Old Fort Niagara in History. Peter A. Porter. 

Champlain, not Cartier. Peter A. Porter, 1899. 

The Battle of Queenston Heights. J. Symons, Toronto, 
1859. 

Narrative of the Anti-Masonic Excitement in Western 
New York in 1826-9. H. Brown, Batavia, 1829. 

The Upper Canadian Rebellion. J. Charles Dent, Toronto, 
1885. 

Recent Earth Movement in the Great Lakes Region. G. K. 
Gilbert, Washington, 1898. 

Niagara Falls and Their History. G. K. Gilbert, Am. 
Book Co., New York, 1895. 

The Great Ice Dams of Lakes Maumee, Whittlesey and 
Warren. Frank B. Taylor, Fort Wayne, Ind., 1899. 

Origin of the Gorge of the Whirlpool Rapids at Niagara. 
Frank B. Taylor, Bull. Geol. Snc. of America, 1898. 

A New Guide to Niagara Falls and Vicinity. F. H. Sev- 
erance, Rand, McNally & Co., Chicago and New York, 1892. 

The Niagara Book. Underbill & Nichols, 1893. 

Cutler's Guide to Niagara Falls, fifth edition. 

The author also desires to acknowledge his indebtedness to 
Prof. P. F. Piper of the Buffalo Central High School, who 
h?3 contributed from his intimate knowledge of Niagara 
much valuable material for this book. 

119 



Index. 



PAGE 

Abbott, Francis 32 

Air phenomena, Erosion. ... 28, 98 

" " Geysers 40 

" Waterfall breeze 44 

Aluminum 78 

Arthrophycus Harlani 70, 71 

Automobile Garage 13 

Customs 15 

Canada License . . 15 

Baggage Transfer 10 

Banks 13, 14 

Beaches, ancient 72, 102 

Bicycles, repairs 14 

Biddle Stairs 28 

Black Rock 90 

Blockhouse 75 

Blondin 93 

Bloody Run 69, 88 

Botany 26 , 58 

Bowman's Creek 53. 64. 104 

Brachiopods 70, 71 

Bridges , fares 15 

Bridge, lower Steel Arch.15, 49, 65, 67 
" upper Steel Arch.15, 35, 65, 67 

" Cantilever 15,48.65,67 

International 77, 83 

" New Suspension ..15,62, 63 

Bridge jumpers 93 

Brock, General Isaac 89 

Brock's Monument 60, 89 

Brown , General 90, 91 

Buckhorn Island 84,' 87 

Buffalo 76 , 90 

Burnt Ship Bay 84 , 87 

Burning Spring 45 

Canal, Hydraulic Ill, 113 

Caroline, burning of the 93 

Carriages 10, 11 

Caryocrinus ornatus 70 

Castle, old French 75 

Cave of the Winds 28 

Cayuga Creek 85 

Cedar Island 44 



PAGE 

Champlain 85 

Chippawa, creek and village. .46, 84 

battle of 46, i90 

Corals 70 

Crinoid heads 70, 71 

Customs 14^ 15 

Denonville 86 

Depots, Buffalo 82 

Niagara Falls 9 

De Veaux College 53, 67 

Devil's Hole 64, 67, 68 

" Hole Glen 60 

" Massacre 88 

" Rapids 64 

" Pulpit 64, 68, 69 

Drinking Water. .23, 24, 30, 32, 57 

Drummond , General 92 

Drummondsville 49 

Dufferin Islands 44 

Earth movements 106 

Electric railways 12, 46, 67 

Gorge road 13,47, 53 

Lewiston & Youngstown 

Frontier Railway 74 

Niagara Falls Park and River 

Railway 77, 84 

Niagara Falls , Wesley Park 

& Clifton Tramway 47 

Niagara, St. Catharines & 

Toronto Electric Railway 13 

International Traction Co . . 76 

Electro-chemical industries. .78, 79 

Elevators, inclinedl 8, 23 , 35 . 36 , 50, 67 

hydraulic 44 

Escarpment, Lewiston 102, 104 

Explorers , early 85 , 89 

Express 13 

Falls, American 

23,28,35,95,98, 99, 106 

" Luna 23, 28 

" Horseshoe . 

.. 35.39,40,41,95,98,99,105 

" future of 105 



PAGE 

Falls, retrogression of 99 

" View station 49 

Ferries 73, 77, 83 

Fish's Creek 63 

Fishing 117 

Fort de Portage 86 

" Erie 77, 83, 110 

" " battle of 90 

" " siege of 92 

" Gray 64 

" George 76, 89 

" Little Niagara 86, 87, 88 

" Massassauga 76 

" Niagara . .75, 86, 87, 88. 89, 92 

" Denonville 86 

" Porter 77, 81 

" Schlosser 88, 90 

Fossils 70, 71 

Foster's Flats 57,64, 68 

Geology26,47,50,51,55,58 69, 72 

Geological history 101 , 117 

Ghent , treaty of 92 

Giant Rock 64 

Glacial epoch, results of .55, 101, 104 

Goat Island 23, 24, 25 

Gorge , Niagara, how formed . . 98 

" history of 101 

age 105 

Grand Island 83, 87, 92 

Gravel pits 26,32,47,55, 72 

Green Island 24 , 32 , 34 

Griffon, The 78,85, 86 

Hennepin, Father 40, 85, 86 

Hennepin's View 20, 23 

Hotels 11,12,63,73,75, 76 

Hunting 118 

Hydraulic canal 79, 110 

Inspiration Point 37 

Itineraries: 

A. Prospect Park 23 

B. Around Goat Island. . . 24 

C . To Cave of the Winds . . 28 

D. To Horseshoe Fall, Ca- 

nadian side 34 

E. To Dufferin Islands. . . 44 

F. To the Burning Spring. 45 

G. Dufferin Is. to Chip- 

pawa 46 

H. Upper to Lower Arch 

Bridge, Canadian side 47 
I. To Lundy's Lane and 

Loretto Convent ... 47 

J. To Whirlpool 50 



PAGE 

K. St. David's Gorge 55 

L. Whirlpool to Niagara 

Glen 57 

M. To Lewiston or Queens- 
ton 60 

N. Lewiston to Niagara 

Falls by Gorge Route 63 

O. To Suspenson Bridge 

and Dev^l'e Hole. ... 67 

P. Devil's Hole to Lewis- 
ton , geological 69 

Q. Lewiston to Youngs- 
town, Toronto, etc. . 74 

R. To Port Day 34 

S. Natural Food Co 34 

T. Niagara Falls Power 

Co.'s plant 34 

Great Belt Line trip 77 

Buffalo to Niagara Falls by 
electric cars, 'steam cars, and 

steamers 76 , 83 

Jewish colonization 78, 92 

Lake Iroquois 102, 103 

Lake Warren 103 

La Motte 85 

La Salle , explorer 85 

Lewiston 63. 73 90 100 

Library 14 

Little Brother Island 32 

Loretto Convent 32, 49 

Luna Island 23 

Luna Fall 23. 28, 29 

Lundy's Lane 49 

Lundy's Lane, battle of 91 

Maid of the Mist 23 , 24 

Manchester 90 

Miller & Brundage 10, 12 

Model City 7S 

Monastery 49 

Morgan incident 92 

Museum 13 

Navy Island 87,93, 84 

Newark, burning of 90 

Newspapers 13, 14 

Niagara Falls, New York. ... 9, 16 

" Ontario 9, 16 

" " north 9 

" south 9, 49 

" " central 9 , 49 

Niagara-on-the-Lake 76 

Glen 57 

Gorge 98, 101 105 



PAGE 

Niagara University 6 , 69 

River, how formed. . . 103 

North Tonawanda 77 

Observation Tower 49 

Ongiara Park 64 

Opticians 13 

Park, Canadian sid 16, 22, 36 

" Prospect 16,8, 21, 24, etc. 

" Superintendent 20, 39 

Penstocks . . .108, 110, 111, 112, 114 

Periodicals 13 

Photo Supplies 13 

Police Stations 13 , 14 

Photographers 1.5 

Port Day , 34 

Portage Road 86 

Post-offices 14 

Pot holes 57, 98 

Power Development at Niag- 
ara Falls 
Niagara Falls Power Co. . . .34, 107 
Niagara Falls Hydraulic 

Power and Mfg. Co Ill 

Canadian Niagara Power Co.44, 110 

Ontario Power Co 35, 45, 114 

Electrical Development Co.44, 115 
Power District of Niagara Falls. 78 

" Tunnels 35,108,110,116 

Queenston 60, 61 , 62 

Queenston Heights , battle of . . 88 , 89 
Railroads: 

Canadian Southern 10 

Erie 9 , 83 

Grand Trunk 9 , 70 

Lehigh 9 , 83 

Michigan Central 9 , 49 , 76 

New York Central 9 , 82 

Wabash 9 

Rapids, American 19, 24 

Buttery 67 



PAGE 

Rapids, Canadian 32 

Devil's Hole 64 

Upper Devil's Hole.. 64 

Whirlpool ...50,53,65, 67 

References 119 

Reservation carriages 11 

Restaurants 12, 39, 68, 84 

Retrogression of the Falls .... 99 

Rope walking 93 

St. Catharines, Ont 13 

St. David's Channel 55, 64, 104 

Schlosser's Dock 78 

Scott, General 89, 90, 91 

Shells 26, 32, 53, 101 

Shelters 20,23,24,30, 39 

Steamers: 

International Navigation Co. 

10, 73, 74 

Turbinia 73 , 74 

Ongiara 73 

Stedman, John 24, 88 

Stores 14 

Strata, thickness of 100 

Stratigraphy 51 , 58 , 71 , 95 , 97 

Strawberry Island 83 

Street's Creek 90 

Table Rock 18, 40 

Telegraph 14 

Terraces 100 

Terrapin Rock 30, 31 

Terrapin Tower 30 

Theater 14 

Three Sister Islands 32 

Toilet rooms 23 , 24, 39 

Toll gate 44 

Tonawanda 77 

Toronto 13, 76 

Trips 18 

Whirlpool 53,54,64,67, 68 

Wintergreen Flats 57 

Youngstown 75, 90 




nPHE cleanest, finest, most hygienic industrial 
building in the world— one of the marvels 
ol *^e century. Government Inspection is good, 
but public in<ioection is better. We invite both. 

VISITED EVI1.RY YEAR BY 
NEARLY 100,000 PERSONS 

If you like Shredded Wheat y ^>\i will like it 
better after seeing how it is made ; if you never 
tasted Shredded Wheat you will eat no other 
cereal food after seeing us make it. 

YOU ARE INVITED. GUIDES FURNISHED FREE. 



The Natural Food Company 

NIAGARA FALLS, NEW YORK. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





014 108 192 5 



